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Veikka Gustafson summits all 14 8000ers
27/07/2009 - Alpinism
Veikka Gustafson summits all 14 8000ers
On 26/07/2009 Veikka Gustafson reached the summit of Gasherbrum I together with Japanese climber Kazuya Hiraide and four Bulgarians. For the mountaineer from Finland this seals his bid to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks without supplementary oxygen.
Rio Gere, climbing at Cortina, Dolomites
21/07/2009 - Climbing
Rio Gere, climbing at Cortina, Dolomites
The routes and news from Rio Gere, the crag close to Cortina in the Dolomites ideal to escape the summer heat.
Climbing at Bassilandia, Arco
14/07/2009 - Climbing
Climbing at Bassilandia, Arco
Beautiful crag dedicated to the late Roberto Bassi, located above romantic Lake Toblino and surprisingly never too crowded.
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
02/07/2009 - Climbing
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.
Zhenja Kazbekova sends 8a+/8b aged 12
01/07/2009 - Climbing
Zhenja Kazbekova sends 8a+/8b aged 12
Jenya Kazbekova from the Ukraine has sent her first 8a+/8b, New Kenigsberg at the Red Stone in the crimea, aged 12.
Productive bouldering season for Andrea Pavan
29/06/2009 - Climbing
Productive bouldering season for Andrea Pavan
Andrea Pavan has had a good bouldering season in Northern Italy, with a series of hard repeats and first ascents close to Val di Mello, Valmasino.
Dave Macleod climbs new route on Torridon, Scotland
22/06/2009 - Climbing
Dave Macleod climbs new route on Torridon, Scotland
On Saturday 20 June Dave Macleod carried out the first ascent of Kolus E8 6c on Torridon, Scotland.
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta Pedranzini, Laetitia Roux in 4:43'31".
Scotland winter climbing update
13/03/2009 - Alpinism
Scotland winter climbing update
Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on Beinn Eighe.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Luca Vuerich has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Jof di Montasio 2753m (Julian Alps).
Ice climbing beyond Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
26/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing beyond Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
Enrico Bonino introduces 4 icefalls which rarely come into condition and which have reformed during this exceptional winter in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. Located between Valsavarenche and Valtournenche, they are off the beaten track from the more famous areas around Cogne.
Val Senales: ski mountaineering in Italy
Val Senales: ski mountaineering in Italy
A selection of ski mountaineering itineraries in the Val Senales, South Tyrol, Italy.
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
13/02/2009 - Alpinism
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
In January Kurt Astner and Emanuele Ciulli made the first ascent of Leben ist jetzt (200m, IV/M7+/ice 80/90°), a modern 5 pitch mixed route in Val di Tures (Riva di Tures, Dolomites).
Ice climbing in Tyrol, Austria
13/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Tyrol, Austria
A selction of some of the best and most representative icefalls in the Tyrol, Austria, by local Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried.
First winter ascents on Ben Nevis and Lake District
08/12/2008 - Alpinism
First winter ascents on Ben Nevis and Lake District
Perfect winter conditions in Great Britain have resulted in a series of first ascents on Ben Nevis in Scotland and in the Lake District in England.

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