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The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
Menhir on Sass dla Crusc, new route by Tondini and Irsara
02/11/2010 - Alpinism
Menhir on Sass dla Crusc, new route by Tondini and Irsara
On 03/09/2010 Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara carried out the first free ascent of Menhir (200m, IX- (7b+), R3, III; EX). The two had established the route between 10 - 26 July 2010 up the Pilastro di Mezzo on the West Face of the Sass dla Crusc (Fanis, Dolomites, Italy).
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.
Sílvia Vidal, Naufragi big wall in Kinnaur Valley, India
23/10/2010 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal, Naufragi big wall in Kinnaur Valley, India
From 15/08/2010 to 08/09/2010 big wall specialist Sílvia Vidal from Spain established Naufragi (1050m, A4+/6a+) in the Kinnaur Valley, India
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...
Zahir 8b+ on the Wendenstöcke repeated by Iker and Eneko Pou
07/10/2010 - Climbing
Zahir 8b+ on the Wendenstöcke repeated by Iker and Eneko Pou
Iker and Eneko Pou from Spain have repeated Zahir 8b+ on the Wendenstöcke, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland
Simone Pedeferri and Quello che non c’è 8c+ in Val Masino
25/08/2010 - Climbing
Simone Pedeferri and Quello che non c’è 8c+ in Val Masino
Simone Pedeferri has freed "Quello che non c’è" 8c+ on Sasso Remenno in Val Masino (Val di Mello).
Chimera Verticale, Civetta
13/08/2010 - Alpinism
Chimera Verticale, Civetta
Chimera Verticale (IX, 600m + pedestal at base), established over a series of summers up the NW Face of Civetta, recounted by first ascentionist Alessandro Baù.
Fredrik Ericsson, fatal accident on K2
09/08/2010 - Alpinism
Fredrik Ericsson, fatal accident on K2
On 6 August Fredrik Ericsson fell to his death from the Bottleneck on K2. The Swedish alpinist was climbing with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from Austria who descended safely to Base Camp. Kaltenbrunner's husband Ralf Dujmovit provides the details about the accident.
Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande di Lavaredo by Krajnc and Grmovsek
05/08/2010 - Climbing
Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande di Lavaredo by Krajnc and Grmovsek
In July Slovenian climbers Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out the first free ascent of the route Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
19/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
Puigblanque (ESP) and Kim (KOR) won the 25th Rock Master Lead in Arco. Lachat (SUI) and Stöhr (AUT) were victorious in the Bouldering competition, while the Speed gold medal went to Hroza (CZE) and He (CHN) and Team Spedwas won by China. The Lead Duel was won by Ondra (CZE)...
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
06/06/2010 - Competitions
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
More than 500 young athletes aged 5 -13 from 20 different countries made the ninth edition of the Rock Junior a success. Chris Sharma, one of the greatest climbers of all times, paid homage to the world's biggest youth climbing event.
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
04/06/2010 - Alpinism
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
On 22 May 2010 Sergio De Leo, Michel Coranotte, Marcello Sanguineti and Marco Appino carried out the first ascent of "Plein Sud" (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+), a new route up the incredible wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Arctic Monkeys, British team forges new big wall on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island
03/06/2010 - Alpinism
Arctic Monkeys, British team forges new big wall on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island
British climbers Mike 'Twid' Turner, Stuart McAleese and Mark Thomas have established their new route Arctic Monkeys (VI A4 V+ 1400m) on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island. Interview with Mike Turner about the ascent.
Himalayan helicopter rescues
25/05/2010 - Alpinism
Himalayan helicopter rescues
Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.