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Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
05/09/2023 - Alpinism
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
Spanish mountaineers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana have climbed a new route on Southwest Face of Latok II in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair summited the distinctive tower they have now called Latok Thumb (6380m) via their 'Atracció Instintiva' (1100m, 7a run out, A2+, M5). Success comes about after a previous...
Watch Silvan Schüpbach complete his Wenden Climbing Marathon
20/08/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Silvan Schüpbach complete his Wenden Climbing Marathon
The video of Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022 with Carlos Molina from Argentina climbed 7 routes in 24 hours on the Wendenstöcke in Switzerland.
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
07/08/2023 - Alpinism
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
The report by Italian mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra who on 10 September 2022 made the first ascent of Via Lisa on the east face of Torre d'Ambiez above Val d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Gran Sasso d'Italia, Via Ferrata Brizio changes name and becomes Ferrata dei Ginepri
04/07/2023 - Trekking
Gran Sasso d'Italia, Via Ferrata Brizio changes name and becomes Ferrata dei Ginepri
The Teramo section of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) has announced it has changed the name of Via Ferrata Brizio to Via Ferrata dei Ginepri. The decision derives from historical events linked to the application of the racial laws during Italy's fascist period.
Michele Caminati tiptoes up Toewalker, small trad gem at Bozen
10/05/2023 - Climbing
Michele Caminati tiptoes up Toewalker, small trad gem at Bozen
The report by Michele Caminati who has made the first ascent of Toewalker on the porphyry crags at Bozen in the South Tyrol, Italy. The single-pitch trad climb is graded E7 6c.
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
08/04/2023 - Alpinism
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
The documentary of the first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, completed on 16 January 1963 by British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans.
Sardinia climbing: three multipitches by Marco Pellegrini on Baunei's Punta su Mulone
07/04/2023 - Alpinism
Sardinia climbing: three multipitches by Marco Pellegrini on Baunei's Punta su Mulone
Marco Pellegrini has made the first ascent of three multipitch sport climbs up the south face of Punta su Mulone above Pedra Longa in the Baunei area of Sardinia, Italy: 'Penso Positivo' with Manuel Zambanini, 'Giumar' with Giulia Orlandi and 'Tempi Interessanti' with Luca Vallata.
Yacaré on Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia first ascended by Pedro Odell, Tomas Odell
27/03/2023 - Alpinism
Yacaré on Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia first ascended by Pedro Odell, Tomas Odell
On 01/02/2023 Argentine climbers Pedro Odell and Tomas Odell made the first ascent of Yacaré on the east face of Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia. The 550m route was graded 6c+/A0 and climbed free a week later by Sean Villanueva and Pete Whittaker.
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
03/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
From 29 October to 16 November 2022 Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner and Isidora Llarena established a new route on Cerro Arenales above the Northern Patagonian Icefield. In order to do so, the three women completed an 150km autonomous traverse through this remote region. Lehner provides the details.
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
31/12/2022 - Climbing
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports
Scottish winter climbing: Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson debut on Nihilist at Lochnagar
12/12/2022 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing: Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson debut on Nihilist at Lochnagar
Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have made the first winter ascent of Nihilist IX 9 at Lochnagar in Scotland.
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
28/11/2022 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...

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