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Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
Rock climbing on Ireland's Gola Island
04/08/2022 - Climbing
Rock climbing on Ireland's Gola Island
Iain Miller introduces the rock climbing on Gola Island in Ireland. This island is one of the epicentre of the Donegal trad climbing scene with well over 200 single pitch routes from Diff to E5 on the pristine granite sea cliffs.
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
08/07/2022 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
Climbing alpine style from 25 - 29 June 2022 French alpinists Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850m) in Pakistan. 'The Crystal Ship' (M7, 6b, A2, 1600m) takes a technical, direct route up the mountain’s south face. Sullivan reports.
Sustainable climbing. The guidebook to Tyrol, Austria by Lena Müller, Deniz Scheerer
06/05/2022 - Climbing
Sustainable climbing. The guidebook to Tyrol, Austria by Lena Müller, Deniz Scheerer
Lena Müller and Deniz Scheerer have produced a climbing guidebook to climate-friendly rock climbing in Tyrol, Austria. Entitled 'Klimafreundlich Klettern. Ein Guidebook zur Anreise mit Bus, Bahn und Rad für Tirol', the guidebook promotes sustainability through the use of bus, train and bicycle to reach 21 different crags and is...
Senja Island Ulvetanna North Ridge in Norway climbed by Simon Richardson, Mark Robson
04/05/2022 - Alpinism
Senja Island Ulvetanna North Ridge in Norway climbed by Simon Richardson, Mark Robson
Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the North Ridge of Ulvetanna on Senja Island in Norway, climbed on 23 April 2022 with Mark Robson. This is possibly only the second ascent of the mountain.
Benjamin Lieber solos Moose's Tooth in Alaska
27/04/2022 - Alpinism
Benjamin Lieber solos Moose's Tooth in Alaska
On 14/04/2022 American alpinist Benjamin Lieber has made a solo ascent of Moose's Tooth in Alaska, via the classic Ham & Eggs Couloir
Mari Salvesen flashes Belly Full of Bad Berries, notorious offwidth at Indian Creek, USA
13/04/2022 - Climbing
Mari Salvesen flashes Belly Full of Bad Berries, notorious offwidth at Indian Creek, USA
A few days ago 32-year-old Mari Salvesen of Norway flashed the notorious Belly Full of Bad Berries in Indian Creek, USA, becoming only the second person to do so after Pete Whittaker in 2011. Salvesen reports about her ascent which has been described as 'a massively significant ascent in offwidth climbing,...
Céüse Grand Face climbing restrictions due to Peregrine falcons
10/04/2022 - Environment
Céüse Grand Face climbing restrictions due to Peregrine falcons
Until 15 June 2022 rock climbing is restricted on the upper pitches of the multi-pitch climbs on the Grand Face at Céüse due to nesting Peregrine falcons.
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
18/03/2022 - Alpinism
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
From 21 to 23 February Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti and Hernán Rodriguez completed the skyline traverse of Grupo La Paz in the Cordillera Riesco in Patagonia, Chile. The trio climbed ‘Ayayema Wesqar’ alpine style from west to east past difficulties up to 5.11- and bivied two nights in between the...
Alex Honnold completes free solo of Dolomites Gelbe Mauer and American Direct on Petit Dru
04/03/2022 - Alpinism
Alex Honnold completes free solo of Dolomites Gelbe Mauer and American Direct on Petit Dru
Last summer American climber Alex Honnold made a free solo ascent of Gelbe Mauer / Muro Giallo on Cima Piccola at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, and most of the American Direct on Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif. His climbs without a rope were...
Line van den Berg and Fay Manners make first female ascent of  Phantom Direct on Grandes Jorasses
10/02/2022 - Alpinism
Line van den Berg and Fay Manners make first female ascent of Phantom Direct on Grandes Jorasses
On the 26th of January 2022 Line van den Berg from the Netherlands and Fay Manners from Great Britain have made the first female ascent of 'Phantom Direct', also referred to as 'Via in memoria di Gianni Comino', established in 1985 on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses in...
Torres del Paine in Patagonia, big new route climbed on La Hoja by Pepo Jurado, Sebastian Pelletti
06/02/2022 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine in Patagonia, big new route climbed on La Hoja by Pepo Jurado, Sebastian Pelletti
On 27-28 January 2022 Pepo Jurado, Sebastian Pelletti made the first ascent of Cuarzo Menguante on the East Face of La Hoja in the Bader Valley in the Torres del Paine, Patagonia
Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera in Patagonia in search of the mountain without a name
17/01/2022 - Alpinism
Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera in Patagonia in search of the mountain without a name
The Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera have set off on expedition to Patagonia, more precisely to the Hielo Norte glacier, where they will attempt a mountain they noted in 2020 that is currently uncharted.
Nina Caprez, Jeremy Bernard visit Vasilika Moon in Greece
07/12/2021 - Competitions
Nina Caprez, Jeremy Bernard visit Vasilika Moon in Greece
Rock climbers Nina Caprez, Jeremy Bernard and friends spent a week at the Corinth refugee camp in Greece with their 'Andrea Base Camp' van equipped with a climbing wall, to help the NGO Vasilika Moon. Nathalie Bini reports.
Jorg Verhoeven: the past, present and future of indoor and outdoor climbing
18/11/2021 - Interviews
Jorg Verhoeven: the past, present and future of indoor and outdoor climbing
36-year-old Dutchman Jorg Verhoven has been climbing for over 25 years and his achievements span the climbing spectrum from big walls in Yosemite to 8C boulders, after having won the Lead World Cup 2006. His thoughts about the state of climbing indoors and outdoor feature in the fourth article of...

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