568 News found

Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.

In what is being hailed as a momentous decision for climbing policy, US Congress has passed the Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act. Furthermore, the National Park Service has withdrawn its proposal to prohibit fixed anchors such as slings, pins, and bolts. This means that wilderness climbing will be protected by...

From 10 to 12 January 2025, the eighth Eiskletterfestival Osttirol Ice Climbing Festival, Austria, will take place at the Eispark Osttirol close to the Matreier Tauernhaus. This year's guest of honour will be the mountaineer Rudolf Hauser.

The third edition of 'Baunei, Sport climbing', the compact climbing guidebook by Maurizio Oviglia, has been published by Pietra di Luna Edizioni. One of the best-selling guidebooks to the east coast of Sardinia, Italy, features all the crags in the Baunei area, as well as the multi-pitch climbs on Pedra...

Parks Victoria and the Victorian Government in Australia have announced huge increases in areas banned to rock climbing. According to the Australian Climbing Association Victoria, the new legislation will affect half of the climbing at the world-famous crag Arapiles.

The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...

British climber James Pearson has made the first repeat of Shikantaza in Valle dell’Orco, Italy. Freed by Jacopo Larcher in 2021, this dangerous trad climb is located on a large boulder at the base of Sergent.

In summer 2024 Mariapia Ghedina and Diego Mabboni made the first ascent of 'Sto imparando a volare' on Punta Emma in the Rosengarten / Catinaccio massif of the Dolomites, Italy.

Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.

Watch the first two episodes of 'The Crux', a four-part series documenting the journey of the world’s most elite climbers. Starring in the first two episodes are Paris 2024 Olympic champions Janja Garnbret of Slovenia and Toby Roberts of Great Britain, while additional storylines also follow the paths of young...

On 12 July 2024 Mike Bowyer and Tom Schindfessel made the first ascent of 'La Suerte viene la suerte se va' on Nevado Cashan West (5732m) in Peru.

Climbing on 18-19 June 2024, Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn established a new route along the South Ridge of Punta Vardaz in the Mont Blanc massif. Rinn reports.

Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.

In August 2022 the Bulgarian climbers Emiliyan Kolevski and Victor Varoshkin made the first ascent of 'Electric Avenue' on Grand Gendarme on the Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc, France. This is only the third route up the famous granite monolith after 'Digital Crack' and 'Arête Cosmiques',...

Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...