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Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
20/12/2012 - Interviews
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
Interview with New Zealand rock climber Mayan Smith-Gobat. Her ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles, the Salathé Wall on El Capitan, the Nose Speed and more...
Maurice Herzog
14/12/2012 - Alpinism
Maurice Herzog
The first man to climb an 8000m peak, French alpinist Maurice Herzog, died today aged 93, as reported by the French Mountaineering Federation.
Jean-Pierre Ouellet adds difficult new rock climbs to Moab
13/12/2012 - Climbing
Jean-Pierre Ouellet adds difficult new rock climbs to Moab
At Moab (USA) Jean-Pierre Ouellet has made the first ascents of two difficult new climbs: Mexican Snow Fairy 5.13+ and Fisting the Crack 5.13-.
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
13/12/2012 - Alpinism
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
Luigi 'Gigi' Dal Pozzo passed away on Monday 10 December 2012 after a long illness. A leading climber and alpinist from the Belluno area of Northern Italy, Gigi Dal Pozzo played a fundamental role in the evolution of climbing in the Dolomites. Sandro Neri remembers the climber.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2013
05/12/2012 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2013
The Ice Climbing World Cup 2013 begins in January and takes place in South Korea, Switzerland, Italy, Romania and Russia.
Sean McColl wins the La Sportiva Legends Only boulder competition in Stockholm
03/12/2012 - Competitions
Sean McColl wins the La Sportiva Legends Only boulder competition in Stockholm
The Canadian climber Sean McColl crowned his best competition season yet by winning this unique challenge organised by La Sportiva, beating runner-up Dmitry Sharafutdinov by one attempt.
All set in Stockholm for the La Sportiva Legends Only competition
01/12/2012 - Competitions
All set in Stockholm for the La Sportiva Legends Only competition
The second "Legends Only" boulder competition, organised by La Sportiva will take place in Sweden's Stockholm today. Those invited to take part are Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Adam Ondra, Sean McColl, Jakob Schubert and Guillaume Glairon Mondet.
Dôme des Écrins, the search continues for the three missing Italian alpinists
29/11/2012 - Alpinism
Dôme des Écrins, the search continues for the three missing Italian alpinists
The Briançon Gendarmerie is continuing its search for Francesco Cantù, Damiano Barabino and Luca Gaggianese, the three Italian alpinists who have been missing for 4 days in the Écrins massif (Dauphiné Alps, France).
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
21/11/2012 - Alpinism
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012 - Competitions
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012. The last stage of the Lead World Cup held last weekend in Kranj, Slovenia, was won by home-athlete Mina Markovic who has now won her second overall World Cup. In the men's event Austria's Jakob Schubert won the Kranj stage while second-placed Sachi Amma from Japan won his first...
Continuing to dream of Patrick Edlinger
19/11/2012 - Climbing
Continuing to dream of Patrick Edlinger
While the grief continues regarding the death Patrick Edlinger, we have published a portrait of this climbing legend that was first published in 2005 in the book Rock Master.
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
16/11/2012 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
A short interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler who, together with Paul Ramsden, climbed the stunning new route Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.

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