1221 News found

Interview with Philippe Brass, mountain guide and expert new routes, about crag certification and classification, the responsibilities new bolters have the the training they receive. By Maurizio Oviglia

The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup, held on 12 and 13 December at Bozeman, USA, was won by Maxim Tomilov and Liudmila Badalyan. The Speed competition was won by Nikolai Kuzovlev and Kendra Stritch.

Maurizio Oviglia analyses the recent case of the sea cliff sports crag “Casarotto” at Capo Caccia, Alghero, Sardinia.

The Rolwaling valley in Nepal, Yalung Ri (5630m) and an expedition with family and friends to enjoy an adventure, a journey, nature and friendship. By Maurizio Oviglia

Angelo Fantini and Diego Pezzoli have made the first ascent of the aid climb Generazioni a Confronto (IV, 5c, A1/A2), Sasso di Fontana Mora, N Italy.

Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moronim from his first competitions to when he won bronze in the 2004 European Bouldering Championship in 2004, via his bouldering and sport climbing which recently netted him the redpoint of Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba, Italy.

After 6 years of efforts and intense climbing yesterday Tommy Caldwell, together with Kevin Jorgeson, made an important breakthrough in their attempt to free Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, freeing what it is considered to be the crux pitch of the route.

The rock climbing tour in Utah - Colorado - Nevada - Arizona with Gian Luca Cavalli (CAAI - Gruppo Occidentale), Manrico Dell'Agnola (CAAI - Gruppo Orientale) and Marcello Sanguineti (CAAI - Gruppo Occidentale). Part three: Indian Creek, Monument Valley and Castle Valley

The interview with Ivan Peri on reaching Monte Carlo, Principality of Monaco, and his traverse across the Alps in 80 days. By Teddy Soppelsa for Good For Alps, magazine AKU trekking & outdoor footwear

This summer Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström made the first ascent of The Corner kick (8a, 900m), a difficult and dangerous new variation to the climb Freya up the Storpillaren pillar on the North Face of Vågakallen, Lofoten islands, Norway.

On Combe Maudite, in the Mont Blanc massif, two new ice and mixed routes have been climbed, Saumons et Glacons (M5+ WI5 R, 500m, Enrico Bonino, Luca Breveglieri, Olivier Colaye) and An... ice surprise (M7, W15, A1+, III, 350m Enrico Bonino, Giulia Venturelli). Report by Enrico Bonino.

On 28 October Libby Sauter from America and Mayan Smith-Gobat from New Zealand set a new female speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, climbing the route in 5 hours and 2 minutes.

Sport climbing: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has made the first female ascent of Mecca Extension 8c at Raven Tor, England.

The fifth stage of the Lead World Cup 2014 was won on 12 October at Mokpo in South Korea by Jakob Schubert from Austria and Mina Markovic from Slovenia. The stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Marcin Dzienski and Iuliia Kaplina.

The report by German alpinist Alexander Huber who, on 18 September 2014 together Michi Althammer made the first free ascent of Wetterbock (8c, 10 pitches) up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.

On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...