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New climb on Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) by Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
28/11/2024 - Alpinism
New climb on Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) by Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Hasta la vista' (8-/RS3/I), a new multi-pitch climb established on the west face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
30/10/2024 - Alpinism
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
Last summer a small expedition of British climbers composed of Indie Fallowfield, Ben Kent and Chris Moore established a series of new routes on hitherto unclimbed west face of Innaarsuit, west coast of Greenland. The trio reached the world's largest island by sailing boat. Kent provides the details.
New Stetind climb in Norway by Dave MacLeod and Calum Muskett
27/10/2024 - Climbing
New Stetind climb in Norway by Dave MacLeod and Calum Muskett
On 2 September 2024 Dave MacLeod and Calum Muskett made the first ascent of 'Line Dancing' (800m, E5 6b) on the SW Face of Stetind in Norway.
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
12/10/2024 - Alpinism
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
Spanish alpinist Jordi Corominas has been named as 2024 recipient of the Piolets d'Or Carrière. He will receive the 16th Walter Bonatti - Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the international festival in San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) in December.
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea' (E6 6b (7b), 1350m) and 'Texture like...
Japanese success on virgin West Face of Thui II in Pakistan
01/10/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese success on virgin west face of Thui II in Pakistan
Japanese climbers Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida and Yudai Suzuki have made the first ascent of the west face of Thui II (6523m) in Pakistan. 'Spider’s Thread' (ED+, M7, A2, 1450m) was climbed alpine style over a period of 4 days and is likely to be only the second ascent of...
Mick Fowler & Victor Saunders make first ascent of Yawash Sar (6258m) in Karakorum
24/09/2024 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler & Victor Saunders make first ascent of Yawash Sar (6258m) in Karakorum
British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders have made the first ascent of Yawash Sar, a 6,258m peak in Pakistan's Karakoram climbed via the NW Face. Climbing alpine style, the pair summited on 14 September.
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
10/09/2024 - Alpinism
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
Earlier this summer an international team comprised of Martin Krasňanský, Michal Mikušinec and Tomáš Buček from Slovakia and František Bulička from the Czech Republic made a rare repeat of 'Grand Diedre Desplomando' on Trango Tower, aka Nameless Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan. The 1100m big wall was first ascended in 1987 by...
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of Drøneren
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
21/08/2024 - Alpinism
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers south of Tasiilaq on the island's southeast coast, was reached...
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
30/07/2024 - Alpinism
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
On 28 July 2024, Italian mountaineer Tommaso Lamantia summited K2 (8611m). The 42-year-old mountaineer, who is member of the CAI Biella expedition, climbed alone and without supplementary oxygen
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima missing on K2
28/07/2024 - Alpinism
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima missing on K2
Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima are reported as missing on the west face of K2.
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...

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