'Borrowed Time' added to Sloan Peak by Justin Sackett, Michael Telstad

On 19 January Justin Sackett and Michael Telstad completed a new, direct line up the west face of Sloan Peak in the North Cascades of Washington state, USA. The pair reached the base of the face at dawn and began working their way up the generally poor quality ice that characterised the lower half of the route, following the Merrill-Minton Route (2023) to the middle of the big rock band. Where this veers right, Sackett and Telstad continued direct. Thankfully the ice improved as they gained height and, after Telstad breached the crux free hanging dagger, they continued more easily to the top "in a blur of perfect blue ice, sun and somewhat sloggy snow climbing to the summit."

The route, now called Borrowed Time and graded WI5 M7, was climbed entirely free in a 17-hour-push. Sackett described it as containing "Truly some of the best ice and mixed climbing I’ve ever done."

Posting on his Instagram handle, Telstad explained "While racking up at the base a few hours earlier I made a last minute decision to leave the bolt kit behind. The route deserved an honest natural attempt before being brought down to our level. I was willing to fail for that.

As I sunk my tools into the ice at the end of the pitch, I felt a wave of relief and excitement wash over me. Sometimes you surprise yourself, and this was most definitely one of those times. Having come expecting a pitch of hard aid, walking away with a free ascent was so much more than I could have asked for."

 

 

 

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