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La vita tra le dita, new rock climb on Monte Monaco (Sicily)
16/06/2013 - Climbing
La vita tra le dita, new rock climb on Monte Monaco (Sicily)
In May 2013 Fabio Failla, Massimo Faletti, Fabio Failla, Massimo Faletti, Luigi Filocamo and Sergio Soraci made the first ascent of La vita tra le dita (200m, 6 pitches, 6b+ obl), a new climb up the north face of Monte Monaco (Sicily).
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
13/06/2013 - Climbing
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
In praise of climbing and nature's beauty. This is Jeef, the route first ascended in 1992 by the French brothers François & Arnaud Petit on Punta U Corbu in Bavella (Corsica). A small masterpiece, examined by Maurizio Oviglia and Arnaud Petit.
Kenton Cool, interview after enchaining Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse
12/06/2013 - Interviews
Kenton Cool, interview after enchaining Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse
Interview with Englishman Kenton Cool after his ascent of Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse carried out between 18 and 20 May. The detailed account of this Himalayan triple and his point of view, as a mountain guide, about commerical expeditions and the crowds on Everest.
Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
10/06/2013 - Climbing
Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
On 31 May 2013, 33 years after its first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic route in southern Sardinia. Originally three pitches long, the route now offers six (plus two traverses) to reach the top of beautiful Perda asub 'e pari (also known as Garibaldi), one of...
RockShow, 2013: Pescara rocks!
05/06/2013 - Climbing
RockShow, 2013: Pescara rocks!
The fourth stage of the Salewa Rockshow 2013 took place on Saturday 18 May at Pescara, proving to be a huge success. The organisers interpreted the spirit of the event perfectly and entertained over 80 climbers and their entourage of family and friends for 12 hours.
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia. Both climbs were established...
Sean Villanueva video: Turkey Crack first ascent at Cadarese
01/06/2013 - Climbing
Sean Villanueva video: Turkey Crack first ascent at Cadarese
Video of the 2010 first ascent of the trad route Turkey Crack at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, carried out by Sean Villanueva.
Valle di Daone bouldering in Italy
31/05/2013 - Climbing
Valle di Daone bouldering in Italy
Valle di Daone, one of the most beautiful bouldering areas in Italy, introduced by Stefania Pellizzari e Angelo Davorio.
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
30/05/2013 - Alpinism
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
On 26 May 2013, Paolo Zanoli, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and Davide Gallian made the first ascent of Ghost Face (TD+, 850m length, 550m height) up the North East Face of Hubshorn (3192m, Pennine Alps). The peak is located on the border between Italy's Piedmont and Switzerland's Canton of Valais and the...
Nicolas Favresse frees his crack project in Norway
27/05/2013 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse frees his crack project in Norway
On 22 May 2013 Belgian rock climber Nicolas Favresse freed his project in Norway, The recovery drink on Profile wall at Jossingfjord.
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
24/05/2013 - Climbing
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.
Melloblocco 10, the book
24/05/2013 - Book-press
Melloblocco 10, the book
Photos, texts, stories and meetings of the first 10 years of Melloblocco: the book that retraces the history of the international bouldering festival which, ever since 2004, has taken place in Italy's Val Masino Val di Mello.
Colonne d'Ercole, Civetta Punta Tissi, interview with Alessandro Baù
20/05/2013 - Interviews
Colonne d'Ercole, Civetta Punta Tissi, interview with Alessandro Baù
Interview with Alessandro Bau about the massive new route first ascended and then freed up Punta Tissi (NW face of Civetta, Dolomites) together with Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini.
Luce di Primo Mattino, Larcher makes first free ascent on Piccolo Dain
17/05/2013 - Climbing
Luce di Primo Mattino, Larcher makes first free ascent on Piccolo Dain
On 18/04/2013 Rolando Larcher made the first free ascent of Luce di Primo Mattino (435m, max 8a obl. A0), the route established by A. Andreotti, B. Menestrina e M. Furlani in 1991 on Piccolo Dain (Sarca Valley, Italy).
Pete Whittaker frees Baron Greenback at Wimberry
16/05/2013 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Baron Greenback at Wimberry
On 4 May Pete Whittaker made the first ascent of Baron Greenback ta the gritstone outcrop Wimberry in England, while Tom Randall made the first repeat of Appointment with Death and Nathan Lee repeated Order of the Phoenix.
Col Armand Charlet, NE couloir ski and snowboard descent
Col Armand Charlet, NE couloir ski and snowboard descent
On 8 May 2013 Davide Capozzi, Julien Herry and Luca Rolli made a ski and snowboard descent of the NE Couloir on Col Armand Charlet, Mont Blanc massif.