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K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Martin Stráník solves Teorie Tygra 8B+ beneath heavy snowfall at Vesec
13/01/2021 - Climbing
Martin Stráník solves Teorie Tygra 8B+ beneath heavy snowfall at Vesec
Beneath a heavy snowfall Czech rock climber Martin Stráník has made the first ascent of Teorie Tygra, an 8B+ boulder problem at Vesec in the Czech Republic.
Video: Dave Macleod winter climbing in Scotland
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Video: Dave Macleod winter climbing in Scotland
The video of Dave Macleod making the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, followed by two other first winter ascents in the Glen Coe area of Scotland.
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
Stefano Ghisolfi establishes Erebor, at 9b/+ the hardest climb in Italy
11/01/2021 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi establishes Erebor, at 9b/+ the hardest climb in Italy
Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Erebor at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+, this is currently the most difficult sport climb in Italy.
Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks
09/01/2021 - Alpinism
Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks
The video of the Swiss expedition comprised of Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist to Patagonia in November 2019. The alpinists made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet via Homenaje a los amigos perdidos, named in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker.
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
08/01/2021 - Alpinism
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
05/01/2021 - Climbing
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
American rock climber George Whitmore has died at the age of 89. Together with Wayne Merry and Warren Harding he made the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 1958.
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
02/01/2021 - Alpinism
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.
Alex Megos at Cresciano sends Dreamtime, Story of Two Worlds, The Dagger
30/12/2020 - Climbing
Alex Megos at Cresciano sends Dreamtime, Story of Two Worlds, The Dagger
Watch the video of German climber Alexander Megos sending the 8C boulder problems Dreamtime and The Story of Two Worlds at Cresciano in Switzerland.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
Stefano Ghisolfi live Change première today at 19
27/12/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi live Change première today at 19
On Sunday 27 December at 7 pm the première of Change, the full-length film that documents the repeat of the world's first 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway. Ghisolfi will be online on youtube to answer questions.
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
26/12/2020 - Alpinism
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.
Video: Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva climbing El Flechazo up Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
25/12/2020 - Alpinism
Video: Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva climbing El Flechazo up Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
The video of the first ascent of El Flechazo on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia, established by Belgian mountaineers Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll in February 2020 with two bivouacs.
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
24/12/2020 - Book-press
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.
Alexander Huber frees 30-year project on Waidringer Steinplatte, Austria
23/12/2020 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees 30-year project on Waidringer Steinplatte, Austria
German rock climber Alexander Huber frees Highway, a 30-year project established by Thomas Schäfer and Norbert Wich on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.

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