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Alaska: big new climb on Citadel in the remote Kichatna Range
15/04/2013 - Alpinism
Alaska: big new climb on Citadel in the remote Kichatna Range
From 5 - 7 April Ben Erdmann, Jess Roskelley and Kristoffer Szilas made the first ascent of Hypa Zypa Couloir (ED: AI5+, M6+, 5.10R, A3, 1100m) up the East Face of the Citadel in the Kichatna Range, Alaska.
Piolets d'Or 2013, the videos of the ascents
11/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013, the videos of the ascents
The videos of the six ascents which all won the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or 2013: Kamet, Shiva, Muztagh Tower, Baitha Brakk (Ogre), Nanga Parbat and Kyashar. The videos were created for the award's celebration of the Piolets d'Or 2013 at Courmayeur by Vinicio Stefanello (Planetmountain.com) and Francesco...
Jirishanca and the attempt by Michi Wohlleben in Peru
03/04/2013 - Alpinism
Jirishanca and the attempt by Michi Wohlleben in Peru
Interview and video about the 2012 attempt carried out by Michi Wohlleben, Arne Bergau and Hannes Jähn to ascend Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru.
2nd International Master Course in Mountain Medicine
22/03/2013 - Alpinism
2nd International Master Course in Mountain Medicine
The second edition of the International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will start on May 2013 to end on June 2014 and will be held at the Italian Insubria University in collaboration with the University of Turin and the Bolzano EURAC. The introduction by Doctor Luigi Festi.
New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
12/03/2013 - Alpinism
New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
In February 2013 the Italian climbers Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi and Andrea Zaffaroni made the first ascent of Perdidos en el Mundo (870m, 23 pitches, 7b+, 6c+ obligatory) up the north face of Cerro Walwalun in Cochamo valley in Patagonia, Chile. The story by Mirko Masè.
Leopoldo Faria climbs Portugal's first 9a at Sagres
12/03/2013 - Climbing
Leopoldo Faria climbs Portugal's first 9a at Sagres
At the sea cliff Sagres Leopoldo Faria has made the first ascent of Peixe Porco, the first 9a sport climb in Portugal.
Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition
11/03/2013 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition
They come from France, Britain, Russia, the United States and Japan and all made beautiful and difficult climb up highest mountains in the world: the candidates for the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious international mountaineering award which will take place from 3 to 6 April 2013...
Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski
08/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski
Krzysztof Wielicki has called off the Polish winter Expedition to Broad Peak. The bodies of Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski will remain up on the mountain.
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
07/03/2013 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
The thoughts of Simone Moro about high-altitude winter mountaineering on the world's Eight-thousanders and about the events which have taken place and are currently unfolding on Broad Peak.
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
06/03/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
The situation is currently extremely difficult for the Polish mountaineers who carried out the first winter ascent of Broad Peak yesterday: while Artur Malek and Adam Bielecki spent the night at Camp IV, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski bivied at the col at 7900m.
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
05/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish Expedition!
On 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the historic first winter of Broad Peak. The Polish mountaineers are members of an Expedition led by the living monument to alpinism Krzysztof Wielicki. With this latest success a staggering 9 first winter ascents of the...
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
04/03/2013 - Alpinism
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
On Saturday 2 March 2013, Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of a new route which, for the first time ever, breaches the West Face of Torre Egger (Cerro Torre massif, Patagonia).
Amiata trad climbing in Tuscany
13/02/2013 - Climbing
Amiata trad climbing in Tuscany
Trad climbing around Monte Amiata in Tuscany, Italy, introduced by Federico Schlatter.
International congress: New Advances in Mountain Medicine and Emergency – second edition
07/02/2013 - Alpinism
International congress: New Advances in Mountain Medicine and Emergency – second edition
The second international congress entitled “New Advances in Mountain Medicine and Emergency” will be held at the Atahotel in Varese on April 18th and 19th, 2013, organised by the Università degli Studi dell’Insubria in collaboration with the Institute of Mountain Emergency Medicine, part of the EUR.AC of Bolzano.
Piolets d'Or 2013: Kurt Diemberger receives Lifetime Achievement Award
06/02/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: Kurt Diemberger receives Lifetime Achievement Award
From 3 - 6 April 2013 Courmayeur and Chamonix will be the world's capital of alpinism thanks to the 21st Piolets d’Or, the international award dedicated to alpinism.
Patagonia, news from Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, the Ragni and more
30/01/2013 - Alpinism
Patagonia, news from Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, the Ragni and more
Fresh news from Patagonia: new routes on Fitz Roy (Flavio Daflon, Sergio Tartari and Luciano Fiorenza) and Aguja de l’S (Josh Huckaby and Mikey Schaefer); The Corkscrew on Cerro Torre climbed by Colin Haley and Chad Kellogg; an attempt currently underway on the West Face of Torre Egger (Matteo Della...

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