69 News found
11/07/2016 - Climbing
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia Swiss climbers Louis Piguet, who has shown a particular interested in the problem about replacing rusty anchors and corroded AISI 304 stainless steel bolts, continues his titanic work of re-equipping the marine crags along Sardinia’s coastline.
02/03/2016 - Climbing
Punta Pilocca... multi-pitches! Sardinia's historic climbing revamped Over the past two months Corrado Pibiri and climbing partners have revamped some historical multi-pitch rock climbs at Punta Pilocca, one of Sardinia’s most beautiful crags. As always, some new routes were created by Pibiri, Fabrizio Lampis, Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia, who now provides the most recent updates.
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.
11/06/2015 - Climbing
Reequipping with 'marine' gear in Sardinia by Louis Piguet Maurizio Oviglia shares the information, provided by Louis Piguet, about the Swissman’s recent rebolting of some sport climbs in Sardinia located at the Buggerru sea cliff and at Cala Fuii (Cala Gonone).
27/05/2015 - Climbing
Palermo and the miraculous climbing on Monte Gallo. By Eugenio Pinotti Eugenio Pinotti tells the intriguing story of a new route, or rather a route that could have already existed, on the north face of Mount Gallo: Nato due volte, climbed with Fabrice Calabrese and Mauro Florit in March 2015.
24/03/2015 - Climbing
Villasimius, Cala Usai restyled in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia introduces the stunning sea crag Cala Usai to Villasimìus in southern Sardinia. New routes have been added while old routes have been rebolted, and the sea cliff now hosts nearly 40 routes from 4c to 8a.
17/02/2015 - Climbing
San Vito Lo Capo. Full stop and start over again. We have received and gladly publish the press release of the representatives of the two associations (Rocce di Sicilia, the organisers of the of San Vito Climbing Festival and YMCA Climbing House, the shop and meeting place for climbers, bikers and trekkers) that operate together to promote the development of...
06/02/2015 - Alpinism
Sappada abseil stations replaced on ice climbs At Sappada, Northern Italy, the local mountain guides have replaced the abseil belays of more than 50 ice falls. The report by Pierpaolo Pedrini
15/12/2014 - Climbing
Sea cliff crags at risk: climbing ban or rebolting? Maurizio Oviglia analyses the recent case of the sea cliff sports crag “Casarotto” at Capo Caccia, Alghero, Sardinia.
23/10/2014 - Climbing
Monte Brione, Arco: Via Giopia. By Paolo Calzà Via Giopia, the beautiful aid climb up the NW Face of Monte Brione close to Arco, first climbed in 1990 by Paolo Calzà, Lino Celva and Mauro Giovanazzi and recently reequipped by Danny Zampiccoli and Calzà who shares the story of the route, dedicated to his friends Mauro Giovanazzi and...
22/07/2014 - Interviews
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues The fabulous world of Babette, or rather Mont Blanc's marvelous granite climbing, starting from Envers des Aiguilles. Interview with Michel Piola, one of the most prolific alpinists in the world who, in more than 30 years of activity, has left an indelible mark on climbing. His routes are considered priceless,...
14/07/2014 - Climbing
Welcome to Tijuana, new rock climb in Italy's Gola del Limarò In June 2014 Francesco Salvaterra and Nicola Calza made the first ascent of Welcome to Tijuana (180m 7a, 6b+ oblig), a new multi-pitch climb in the Gola del Limarò canyon close to Arco, Trentino - Alto Adige, Italy
24/03/2014 - Climbing
Bavella climbing in Corsica: Punta A Biciartula Maurizio Oviglia reveals Punta A Biciartula at Bavella, Corsica; pure pleasure climbing up some of the most beautiful and unique granite in the world.
21/01/2014 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, trad and new multi-pitches A January update by Maurizio Oviglia about the latest climbing news from Sardinia. This month: trad climbing at Regno di Onan, Capo Pecora, the Supramonte di Urzulei with the new route Sos de Urthullè and Villacidro with the new climb Dream Catcher on Torre Cinzia.
07/01/2014 - Alpinism
B&B - Azione indecente, new dry tooling crag at Cogne Enrico Bonino introduces B & B - Azione indecente, a new dry tooling area Cogne (Aosta), Italy.
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