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Charles Dubouloz, Les Grandes Jorasses and his Rolling Stones winter solo
21/02/2022 - Interviews
Charles Dubouloz, Les Grandes Jorasses and his Rolling Stones winter solo
Interview with French mountaineer Charles Dubouloz who from 13 to 18 January 2022 made the first winter solo of Rolling Stones on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
El Capitan’s Dawn Wall attempted by Sébastien Berthe, Siebe Vanhee
20/01/2022 - Climbing
El Capitan’s Dawn Wall attempted by Sébastien Berthe, Siebe Vanhee
Belgian climbers Sébastien Berthe and Siebe Vanhee are currently attempting to climb The Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Yuji Hirayama (52) fires first ascent of Hanabi 8c+ at Mt Futago in Japan
22/12/2021 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama (52) fires first ascent of Hanabi 8c+ at Mt Futago in Japan
52-year-old Japanese rock climber Yuji Hirayama has made the first ascent of the 8c+ Hanabi at Futagoyama (Mt Futago) in Japan.
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
18/10/2021 - Alpinism
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher and Michele Cagol have made the first ascent of Bepino, a new multi-pitch rock climb on the west face of Cima Uomo (2543m) in the Brenta Dolomites to remember their father-in-law Giuseppe Deavi. The route was subsequently freed by Bepino's nephew and Rolando's son, Alessandro Larcher. The three...
Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
26/08/2021 - Alpinism
Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Jean-Louis Wertz are currently climbing in Greenland with Aleksej Jaruta from Sweden. After having reached the island by sailing boat from France, the team managed to establish the first route up the steep Siren Tower.
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
28/07/2021 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
The third episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's. After Finale Ligure and Sperlonga, the third stop are the crags at Ferentillo in the heart of Umbria.
Gravere defies gravity: Claudia Ghisolfi, Giorgio Tomatis send L'extremacura plus 8c+
03/06/2021 - Climbing
Gravere defies gravity: Claudia Ghisolfi, Giorgio Tomatis send L'extremacura plus 8c+
At Gravere in Piedmont, Italy, Claudia Ghisolfi and Giorgio Tomatis have both redpointed L'extrema cura plus 8c+. Tomatis also managed to flash the 8c Extrema cura.
Martina Valmassoi breaks 24-hour uphill ski record, climbs staggering 17,645m
Martina Valmassoi breaks 24-hour uphill ski record, climbs staggering 17,645m
From 21 and 22 March 2021 Martina Valmassoi from Italy broke the female 24-hour uphill ski record, ascending 17,645m in 24 hours at Auronzo di Cadore in the Dolomites.
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
15/02/2021 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
Interview with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia, carried out solo from 5 to 10 February and christened the Moonwalk Traverse by the Belgian mountaineer. This is only the second time that the iconic skyline of Patagonia has been climbed in its entirety in a single...
Farewell to Galliano Bordin, founder of AKU
02/02/2021 - Environment
Farewell to Galliano Bordin, founder of AKU
Galliano Bordin, the founder of the Italian footwear company AKU, passed away aged 85 on Saturday. The son of a family of shoemakers, Bordin founded the company at Montebelluna in Northern Italy and exported walking shoes, trekking and mountaineering boots and outdoor footwear to over 30 countries around the world...
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
Goodbye Doug Scott
07/12/2020 - Alpinism
Goodbye Doug Scott
British mountaineer Doug Scott passed away today. Aged 79, he was recognised as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times.
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Video: Adam Ondra and the intricate climbing ethics of Czech sandstone
05/08/2020 - Climbing
Video: Adam Ondra and the intricate climbing ethics of Czech sandstone
The video on Adam Ondra explaining, with Petr Slanina, how a new climb is first ascended on the sandstone towers in the Czech Republic. With archive footage of the first 9a established ground-up by Ondra at Labak in 2012.