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Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
Fay Manners, Benjamin Ramos ski new line on Grande Fourche
Fay Manners, Benjamin Ramos ski new line on Grande Fourche
On 12/05/2024 Fay Manners and Benjamin Ramos made what is believed to be a new ski descent on the south face of Grande Fourche in the Mont Blanc massif.
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango Tower (6286m) in Pakistan, skiing a steep, exposed and weaving line down the mountain's west face.
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
07/05/2024 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
The report by Italian mountaineer Leo Gheza who on 29 April, after having cycled 150km, climbed "Opera Buffa" rope solo on Mount Colodri at Arco. Almost 300m high and with difficulties up to 7c+, Gheza climbed the entire route free after attempting the first 5 pitches 3 weeks earlier.
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
On 12/04/2024 Fay Manners and Anna Tybor skied the North East Ramp on Epaule Sallière at Les Marécottes. This is believed to be the first ski descent of this 5.3 line.
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
18/04/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.
New Dent du Requin descent by Yannick Boissenot, Julien Herry, Zian Perrot-Couttet
New Dent du Requin descent by Yannick Boissenot, Julien Herry, Zian Perrot-Couttet
French mountaineers Yannick Boissenot, Julien Herry and Zian Perrot-Couttet have made a new ski and snowboard descent in the Mont Blanc massif, 'L'aileron du Requin' on Dent du Requin.
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
On 17 February Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille made the first ski descent of the Arête Charlet Straton on Aiguille d’Argentiere in the Mont Blanc Massif. Manners reports about the 5.4 line they have called 'Stratonspherique'.
New mixed climb added to Mont Noire de Peuterey by Richard Tiraboschi, Giuseppe Vidoni
09/02/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Mont Noire de Peuterey by Richard Tiraboschi, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 02/05/2024 Italian alpinists Richard Tiraboschi and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of 'Couloir Noire' (400m, AI4, M5) on Mont Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.
La Venta explores Colombia's El Penòn karstic plateau
06/02/2024 - Environment
La Venta explores Colombia's El Penòn karstic plateau
Luca Gandolfo reports about the new exploration project of the La Venta Geographical Exploration Association on the karstic plateau of El Penòn in Colombia.
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
12/01/2024 - Alpinism
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
Enrico Lovato reports about the first ascent of 'Il Cigno Nero' (320m, 5+, M7, 40°) established on the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the Brenta Dolomites with Federico Asciolla on 5 January 2024.
Dolomites Ultima Perla on Agner North Face climbed ground-up by Simon Gietl, Lukas Hinterberger, Michi Wohlleben
31/12/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Ultima Perla on Agner North Face climbed ground-up by Simon Gietl, Lukas Hinterberger, Michi Wohlleben
From 27 to 29 December 2023 Simon Gietl, Lukas Hinterberger and Michael Wohlleben carried out the first ground-up ascent of 'Ultima perla' on the North Face of Agner in Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites.

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