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'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
01/04/2025 - Alpinism
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
The report by Silvan Schüpbach about the first ascent of 'Luce e Tenebre' on the north face of Punta Pioda, also known as Pioda di Sciora in Switzerland, established from 6 - 9 March 2025 together with fellow Swiss alpinists Filippo Sala and Roger Schäli.
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
27/03/2025 - Alpinism
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 7 March 2025, Emanuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made what is likely to be the first winter ascent of 'Via Dell’Eva-Taddei' on the north face of Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy). The summer climb, first ascended in 1969 and originally graded V+, was reinterpreted by Andreozzi and Falezza in a...
New mixed climb on Monte Vigna Vaga, Bergamo Alps, Italy
14/03/2025 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Monte Vigna Vaga, Bergamo Alps, Italy
On 2 March 2025 Valentino Cividini and Paolo Zenoni made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'La Rampa Vaga' (400m, D+/TD- (70-80°) on the north face ofVigna Vaga (2332m), Bergamo Alps, Italy.
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda established by Filippo Sala, Roger Schäli, Silvan Schüpbach
12/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda established by Filippo Sala, Roger Schäli, Silvan Schüpbach
Swiss alpinists Filippo Sala, Roger Schäli, and Silvan Schüpbach have opened 'Luce e Tenebre', a spectacular new route on the north face of Punta Pioda, also known as Pioda di Sciora in Switzerland.
'Via Teti' added to Cima Busazza in Italy by Emanuele Andreozzi, Andrea Gremes
10/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Via Teti' added to Cima Busazza in Italy by Emanuele Andreozzi, Andrea Gremes
The report by Andrea Gremes, who on 4 March 2025 teamed up with Emanuele Andreozzi to make the first ascent of 'Via Teti', a mixed climb on the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello-Presanella group, Italy.
In Chile’s Cochamó valley Domenico Mottarella & Marco Zanchetta establish 'El Diedro de lo Squalupo'
05/03/2025 - Alpinism
In Chile’s Cochamó valley Domenico Mottarella & Marco Zanchetta establish 'El Diedro de lo Squalupo'
In early February 2025 the Italians Domenico Mottarella and Marco Zanchetta made the first ascent of "El Diedro de lo Squalupo" in the Cochamó Valley in Chile. The climb is located at Sector de Mamón in the La Paloma valley.
Filippo Sala makes first ascent on Pizzo San Giacomo North Face in Switzerland
04/03/2025 - Alpinism
Filippo Sala makes first ascent on Pizzo San Giacomo North Face in Switzerland
On 24/02/2025 Swiss mountaineer Filippo Sala established a new climb, solo, up the north face of Pizzo San Giacomo (2923) in Switzerland. This is believed to be the first winter climb on the imposing rock pyramid.
Robert Jasper receives 'Primus Inter Pares' award from Polish Mountaineering Association
28/01/2025 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper receives 'Primus Inter Pares' award from Polish Mountaineering Association
German alpinist Robert Jasper has been awarded the 'Primus Inter Pares 2024' prize from the Polski Związek Alpinizmu, the Polish Alpine Club. This award recognises his extraordinary life's work and his pioneering first ascents in the field of alpinism
New climb on Cima Busazza in Italy in honour of Tomas Franchini
23/01/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on Cima Busazza in Italy in honour of Tomas Franchini
On the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella group, Emanuele Andreozzi and Silvestro Franchini have made the first ascent of Tomas. The new mixed climb is dedicated to Silvestro's brother, Tomas Franchini, who perished last summer on Mount Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Paul Bonhomme explores ‘De l’autre coté du ciel’ on Tête d’Eslucis in the Écrins
Paul Bonhomme explores ‘De l’autre coté du ciel’ on Tête d’Eslucis in the Écrins
On 16/01/2025 Paul Bonhomme made the first ski descent of ‘De l’autre coté du ciel’ down the north face of Tête d’Eslucis (2764m) in the Écrins massif in France. The report by the French mountain guide.
Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
26/12/2024 - Alpinism
Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
The video of the first repeat and first winter ascent of the 'Directissime' on Pointe Walker on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, carried out from 9 to 13 February 2023 by French alpinists Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin and Symon Welfringer. The route was established in summer 1986...
San Martino di Castrozza gears up for Piolets d'Or 2024
04/12/2024 - Events
San Martino di Castrozza gears up for Piolets d'Or 2024
The 2024 edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place from 8 - 11 December 2024 in San Martino di Castrozza, Dolomites, Italy.
Hidesuke Taneishi, Hiroki Yamamoto make first ascent of Mt Pholesobi in Nepal
11/11/2024 - Alpinism
Hidesuke Taneishi, Hiroki Yamamoto make first ascent of Mt Pholesobi in Nepal
Japanese mountaineers Hidesuke Taneishi and Hiroki Yamamoto have made the first ascent of Pholesobi Peak (6652m) in Nepal via a direct line up the mountain's North Face (ED+, 1500m).
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
25/10/2024 - Alpinism
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
From 22 August to 26 September a small team of four Slovenian women comprised of Ana Baumgartner, Urša Kešar, Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev climbed four new routes in the Indian Himalaya. These include the alpine style first ascent of the previously unclimbed Lalung I (6,243m).
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
12/10/2024 - Alpinism
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
Spanish alpinist Jordi Corominas has been named as 2024 recipient of the Piolets d'Or Carrière. He will receive the 16th Walter Bonatti - Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the international festival in San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) in December.