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Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
27/03/2025 - Alpinism
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 7 March 2025, Emanuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made what is likely to be the first winter ascent of 'Via Dell’Eva-Taddei' on the north face of Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy). The summer climb, first ascended in 1969 and originally graded V+, was reinterpreted by Andreozzi and Falezza in a...
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda established by Filippo Sala, Roger Schäli, Silvan Schüpbach
12/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda established by Filippo Sala, Roger Schäli, Silvan Schüpbach
Swiss alpinists Filippo Sala, Roger Schäli, and Silvan Schüpbach have opened 'Luce e Tenebre', a spectacular new route on the north face of Punta Pioda, also known as Pioda di Sciora in Switzerland.
Yannick Flohé ticks 'Story of Three Worlds' (8C+) at Cresciano
20/02/2025 - Climbing
Yannick Flohé ticks 'Story of Three Worlds' (8C+) at Cresciano
German climber Yannick Flohé has repeated the 8C+ boulder problem 'Story of Three Worlds' in Cresciano, Switzerland.
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
18/02/2025 - Alpinism
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
Gabriele Gorobey reports about the March 2023 first ascent, with Davide Gaeta and Guido De Sabbata, of Kairos (8a+, 230m), a new multi-pitch route on Paroi de la Cascade in Taghia, Morocco.
Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
07/02/2025 - Climbing
Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe has made the fourth free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. First climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2015, it was repeated by Adam Ondra in 2016 and is known as the most difficult big wall climb in the...
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of hardest climb in China
06/02/2025 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of hardest climb in China
French rock climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of 'El Gran Cabrón' in the Shegeng Cave in China. Graded 9b, this now stands as the hardest sport climb in the country
Chiribiquete expedition 2024, an expedition to Colombia's cosmic Maloka of the Jaguar
04/02/2025 - Alpinism
Chiribiquete expedition 2024, an expedition to Colombia's cosmic Maloka of the Jaguar
The report by La Venta about the December 2024 expedition to the Amazon rainforest in south central Colombia, more precisely to the Serranía del Chiribiquete National Natural Park, to explore and study a new area of rock cliffs and caves adorned with remarkable ancient murals.
Yet another new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
03/02/2025 - Alpinism
Yet another new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
On 22 January 2025, in Valle di Enghe above Sappada in NE Italy, the two InMont mountain guides Gianni Dorigo and Samuel Straulino established the new mixed climb 'L’Orco non va mai in vacanza' (The Ogre Never Goes on Holiday). Below is Dorigo’s report.
Mountain & Adventure Prize by Bernard de Launoit Foundation provides €25,000 grant
07/01/2025 - Alpinism
Mountain & Adventure Prize by Bernard de Launoit Foundation provides €25,000 grant
Applications are open for the new Bernard de Launoit Prize for Mountain & Adventure. This €25,000 financial award supports young people in their quest for adventure. Deadline 1 February 2025
New mixed climb on Sciora Dafora in Switzerland by Roger Schäli, Peter von Känel
05/01/2025 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Sciora Dafora in Switzerland by Roger Schäli, Peter von Känel
On 31/12/2024 Swiss mountaineers Roger Schäli and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of 'Methadone' on Sciora Dafora, also referred to as Sciora di Fuori, in Switzerland. This is highly likely to be a winter ascent of a summer climb established in 1974 by D. Erba, G. Maresi and...
Simon Gietl, Manuel Oberarzbacher establish 'Hybrid' mixed climb on Sella, Dolomites
25/12/2024 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Manuel Oberarzbacher establish 'Hybrid' mixed climb on Sella, Dolomites
On 12 December 2024, the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Manuel Oberarzbacher completed the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Hybrid' on Mur de Pisciadù in the Sella group of the Dolomites, Italy.
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
10/12/2024 - Alpinism
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
The report of the second day of the Piolets d'Or 2024 in San Martino di Castrozza, Dolomites.
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #1
09/12/2024 - Alpinism
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #1
The short report of the first day of the Piolets d'Or 2024 in San Martino di Castrozza, Dolomites.
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
05/12/2024 - Alpinism
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
The report by Italian mountain guide Saro Costa of his Alpin’ Ticino Project, ie the link-up from 19 to 30 October 2024 of the 42 3000-meter mountains in the Ticino Alps in Switzerland. The only mountain not summited, due to too much snow and lack of daylight, was Kastelhorn.
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
25/11/2024 - Interviews
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
Interview with Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl after her ground-breaking, historic flash ascent of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Michaela Kiersch climbs Dreamtime to make first female ascent of Fred Nicole’s Cresciano masterpiece
11/11/2024 - Interviews
Michaela Kiersch climbs Dreamtime to make first female ascent of Fred Nicole’s Cresciano masterpiece
American climber Michaela Kiersch has made the first female ascent of Dreamtime, Fred Nicole’s masterpiece at Cresciano hailed as the first 8C boulder problem in the world.