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Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
02/08/2024 - Alpinism
Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo has made the first rope-solo ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower group in Pakistan. The most famous big wall at altitude was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora.
Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
18/07/2024 - Competitions
Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Lijuan Deng of China and Ludovico Fossali of Italy.
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...
Olympic Flame lights up Aiguille du Midi (Mont Blanc)
06/07/2024 - Alpinism
Olympic Flame lights up Aiguille du Midi (Mont Blanc)
In the run-up to the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, on 23 June the Olympic Torch Relay completed a breathtaking tour of Aiguille du Midi.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
01/07/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
The fourth IFSC World Cup stage of the season took place in Innsbruck, Austria last week. Boulder was won by Janja Garnbret and Amagasa Sohta, while Lead was won by Garnbret and Jakob Schubert.
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
29/06/2024 - Climbing
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
28/06/2024 - Competitions
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
Eddie Fowke reports about the second and final Olympic Qualifying Series that took place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June. Stakes were extremely high as after Shanghai this represented the last chance for 24 Combined Boulder & Lead climbers and 14 Speed athletes to qualify for the Paris...
Paraclimbing to be included in the LA 2028 Paralympic Games
27/06/2024 - Competitions
Paraclimbing to be included in the LA 2028 Paralympic Games
Following a thorough evaluation by LA28, the IPC Governing Board approved the Organising Committee’s proposal to include Para climbing into the 2028 Paralympic Games in Los Angeles, USA.
Via Ferrata at Cortina, Dolomites / June 2024 conditions
24/06/2024 - Alpinism
Via Ferrata at Cortina, Dolomites / June 2024 conditions
The Cortina Mountain Guides provide information on the current situation of the via ferratas around Cortina d'Ampezzo (Dolomites). Given the snow up in the mountains, many of the via ferratas are still closed.
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
13/06/2024 - Events
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
The 2024 edition of the 'Piolets d’Or, the prestigious mountaineering award, will be held in San Martino di Castrozza, in Trentino, Italy, from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
09/06/2024 - Climbing
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
The video portrait of Dean Potter, one of the world’s leading climbers who lost his life on 16/05/2015 aged 43 in a wingsuit accident in Yosemite Valley, USA, together with Graham Hunt.
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
28/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
Eddie Fowke reports about the first leg of the Olympic Qualifier Series held in Shanghai 10 days ago. The second leg will take place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June and the combined results will enable the world’s best competition climbers to gain a place for the Paris...
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.