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Surprising new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
29/01/2025 - Alpinism
Surprising new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
In Valle di Enghe, close to Sappada in NE Italy, Christian Casanova, Marco Ronchi and Lorenzo Zanella have established the mixed climb 'I 3 Orchi'. Casanova reports.
New rock climbs in Morocco by Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz
22/01/2025 - Climbing
New rock climbs in Morocco by Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz
British rock climber Fay Manners reports about a climbing trip to Morocco towards the end of last year which resulted in the first ascents of three new trad climbs together with
Paul Bonhomme explores ‘De l’autre coté du ciel’ on Tête d’Eslucis in the Écrins
Paul Bonhomme explores ‘De l’autre coté du ciel’ on Tête d’Eslucis in the Écrins
On 16/01/2025 Paul Bonhomme made the first ski descent of ‘De l’autre coté du ciel’ down the North Face of Tête d’Eslucis (2764m) in the Écrins massif in France. The report by the French mountain guide.
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
10/12/2024 - Alpinism
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
The report of the second day of the Piolets d'Or 2024 in San Martino di Castrozza, Dolomites.
Baunei Sportclimbing 2025, the new guidebook to Sardinia's east coast by Maurizio Oviglia
29/11/2024 - Book-press
Baunei Sportclimbing 2025, the new guidebook to Sardinia's east coast by Maurizio Oviglia
The third edition of 'Baunei, Sport climbing', the compact climbing guidebook by Maurizio Oviglia, has been published by Pietra di Luna Edizioni. One of the best-selling guidebooks to the east coast of Sardinia, Italy, features all the crags in the Baunei area, as well as the multi-pitch climbs on Pedra...
Giovanni Placci sends Erebor (9b) at Arco
22/11/2024 - Climbing
Giovanni Placci sends Erebor (9b) at Arco
On 19/11/2024 Giovanni Placci redpointed Erebor at the Eremo di San Paolo crag in Arco, Italy.
Jacopo Larcher repeats 'Magic Line' in Yosemite
12/11/2024 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats 'Magic Line' in Yosemite
South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher has repeated 'Magic Line' (5.14c/8c+) in Yosemite Valley, California, making the route’s 7th ascent.
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
Lars Lämmler completes first Climb & Fly from Alpamayo in Peru
29/10/2024 - Alpinism
Lars Lämmler completes first Climb & Fly from Alpamayo in Peru
On 17 June 2024 Swiss alpinist Lars Lämmler completed what is believed to be the first paraglider flight off the summit of Alpamayo in Peru.
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
25/10/2024 - Alpinism
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
From 22 August to 26 September a small team of four Slovenian women comprised of Ana Baumgartner, Urša Kešar, Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev climbed four new routes in the Indian Himalaya. These include the alpine style first ascent of the previously unclimbed Lalung I (6,243m).
Remains of Andrew Irvine believed to have been found below Everest
11/10/2024 - Alpinism
Remains of Andrew Irvine believed to have been found below Everest
In September 2024 a National Geographic team comprised of Jimmy Chin, Erich Roepke and Mark Fisher discovered what they believe to be remains of British mountaineer Andrew Irvine. The climber was last seen 100 years ago with George Mallory on the NE Ridge of Everest during their historic attempt to...
Sergey Nilov perishes on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov safe in Skardu
22/08/2024 - Alpinism
Sergey Nilov perishes on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov safe in Skardu
Russian mountaineers Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are safely in Skardu. The pair was transported there by Pakistani military helicopter following the serac collapse on Gasherbrum IV which resulted in the death of Sergey Nilov.
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
19/08/2024 - Alpinism
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
  • Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are descending to 6100m where they will be rescued by Pakistani military helicopters
  • Russian mountaineer Sergey Nilov is reported missing on Gasherbrum IV after a serac collapsed. Climbing partners Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are injured and awaiting evacuation.
  • Tiro Lead 2024, the climbing challenge at Ollomont in Valle d'Aosta
    12/08/2024 - Climbing
    Tiro Lead 2024, the climbing challenge at Ollomont in Valle d'Aosta
    Valle d'Aosta, Italy, is to host the unique climbing challenge Tiro Lead. Once again the aim is to free two difficult sport climbs, this time at the new crag Cascata Lo Dard above Ollomont. This year's prize money totals €1,200; the initiative is open to everyone and will last all...
    The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
    01/07/2024 - Alpinism
    The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
    From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
    Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
    Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
    Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.

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