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Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
11/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
Over a three day period Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, 'Aim for the bushes' (AI6M6X 5250).
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this is a difficult, historic and rarely repeated line up the...
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
Tasio Martin & Marc Toralles climb Punta Guillem Aparicio in Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India
11/10/2022 - Alpinism
Tasio Martin & Marc Toralles climb Punta Guillem Aparicio in Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India
On 23 August 2022 Tasio Martin from the Basque country and Marc Toralles from Catalonia made the first ascent of Punta Guillem Aparicio (5700m) in the Shafat Valley, Zanskar, India via their Txoria Txori (740m, 7a+).
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
06/10/2022 - Climbing
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
54-year-old Swiss climber Chris Frick reports about his recent repeat of Stop Sika, an 8c at Rawyl in Switzerland.
Roger Schäli establishes Tierra del Fuego rope-solo on Roda Val della Neve in Switzerland
05/10/2022 - Alpinism
Roger Schäli establishes Tierra del Fuego rope-solo on Roda Val della Neve in Switzerland
44-year-old Roger Schäli has completed the first ascent, ground-up and rope-solo, of Tierra del Fuego on Roda Val della Neve in Switzerland.
On Dolomites Neunerspitze Simon Kehrer, Hubert Eisendle establish La Gana tla Pera
23/08/2022 - Alpinism
On Dolomites Neunerspitze Simon Kehrer, Hubert Eisendle establish La Gana tla Pera
Alpinists Simon Kehrer and Hubert Eisendle from the South Tyrol, Italy, have made the first ascent of 'La Gana tla Pera' on the south face of Neunerspitze / Sasso delle Nove in the Dolomites.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Goodbye Innsbrooklyn in Valsertal, Austria
06/04/2022 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Goodbye Innsbrooklyn in Valsertal, Austria
The report by Simon Messner who at the end of March with Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of Goodbye Innsbrooklyn, a difficult mixed climb up the North Face of Schrammacher in the Valsertal, Austria.
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
05/04/2022 - Alpinism
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
From 23-25 March 2022 Clint Helander and Andres Marin completed the first ascent of 'The Shaft of the Abyss' (VI AI5R M5 90° Snow A0 ca. 4,000’), a huge new mixed climb up the east face of awe-inspiring Mt. Golgotha in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.
Stefano Ghisolfi frees The Lonely Mountain, another 9b at Arco, Italy
20/12/2021 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi frees The Lonely Mountain, another 9b at Arco, Italy
At the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of The Lonely Mountain 9b.
Cascata Major on Mont Blanc East Face climbed by Francesco Civra Dano, Giuseppe Vidoni
24/11/2021 - Alpinism
Cascata Major on Mont Blanc East Face climbed by Francesco Civra Dano, Giuseppe Vidoni
On the east face of Mont Blanc Giuseppe Vidoni and Francesco Civra Dano have climbed an icefall that had never been ascended before. Described as 'a real icefall at 4000m, about 200 meters high in the middle of the Brenva face’, the line then took them to the summit of...
Peak Kosmos in Kyrgyzstan climbed by Alexander Gukov, Victor Koval
10/11/2021 - Alpinism
Peak Kosmos in Kyrgyzstan climbed by Alexander Gukov, Victor Koval
Ace Russian mountaineers Alexander Gukov and Victor Koval have completed an impressive first ascent in the Kokshaal-Too Ridge mountain range, climbing a direct line up the center of the north face of Peak Kosmos in pure alpine style over a period of 7 days.
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
19/10/2021 - Alpinism
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines have climbed a remarkable new route up the virgin North Face of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal. 'À l'ombre du mensonge' was ascended alpine style over 4 days and breaches difficulties up WI 5+, M5+, 90°, ED.
Cimon della Pala, Dolomites: Emanuele Andreozzi, Matteo Faletti establish Elements of Life
13/04/2021 - Alpinism
Cimon della Pala, Dolomites: Emanuele Andreozzi, Matteo Faletti establish Elements of Life
Alpinists Emanuele Andreozzi and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of Elements of Life (900m, AI5/M6), a spectacular mixed climb up the north face of Cimon della Pala in the Pale di San Martino group of the Italian Dolomites.
Dolomites Nasswand reveals its Surprise to Martin and Manuel Baumgartner
28/01/2021 - Climbing
Dolomites Nasswand reveals its Surprise to Martin and Manuel Baumgartner
South Tyrolean mountain guide Manuel Baumgartner reports about the first ascent of Surprise, a new mixed climb up Nasswand / Croda Bagnata, in the Höhlensteintal / Valle di Landro, Dolomites first ascended with his cousin Martin Baumgartner.

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