6852 News found

On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).

On Tuscany's Monte Amiata Michele Caminati has freed the boulder problem Mondo Bastardo 8B and the trad route Un friend per amico E6 6c.

Antipodi, the New Zealand journey and skiing recounted by Emilio Previtali for STORY.teller COLLECTIVE (alias Damiano Levati, Emilio Previtali, Matteo Vettorel).

The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).

The second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2013 was won on 19 January in Saas Fee (Switzerland), after two thrilling finals by the Russians Maxim Tomilov and Maria Tolokonina. Angelika Rainer from Italy placed second.

At Santa Linya in Spain an unstoppable Jakob Schubert sent five 9a routes.

On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.

On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).

E9 6c, the climbing documentary featuring John Redhead and Johnny Dawes, by Dominic Clemence.

On Saturday 12 January 2013 Giorgio Bertagnolli and Cristian Defant made the first repeat of Via Valeria on Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites, the ice climb established on 6-7 January 2013 by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti with difficulties up to VI- ice, M6, VI+ rock.

On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.

The results of the first stage of the ISMF Scarpa World Cup 2013 which took place last weekend in Valle Aurina (South Tyrol, Italy).

On 27/12/2012 David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first ascent of Sprindrift (600m, VIII-, M6, WI VI, A1) up the North Face of Laserz, Lienzer Dolomites, Austria.

On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.

A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).

On 05/01/2013 Cristian Candiotto and Ezio Lualdi made the probable first ascent of the icefall Illusion (90m, 5/5+) in Val Budria (Italy).