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Slovenian Kyrgyzstan expedition nets new routes
13/12/2006 - Alpinism
Slovenian Kyrgyzstan expedition nets new routes
Andrej Magajne from Slovenia reports of his August 2006 and 2005 expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, which resulted in four new routes in the Karakol valley in the Terskey Ala Too range.
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
01/12/2006 - Alpinism
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
On 7 November Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first repeat of "Bocconi amari". This difficult mixed route was first ascended by Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26 October up the north face of the Triangolo nero on Monte Emilius, the prime mountain...
Bitter pills for Rossando Libera and Ezio Marlier on Mount Emilius
28/10/2006 - Alpinism
Bitter pills for Rossando Libera and Ezio Marlier on Mount Emilius
On Thursday 26 October Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier made a 12 hour first asscent of "Bocconi amari" up the north Face of Triangolo nero, Monte Emilius, Valle d'Aosta.
Kedar Dome ascent for Parnell and Emmett
20/10/2006 - Alpinism
Kedar Dome ascent for Parnell and Emmett
British duo Tim Emmett and Ian Parnell climb new route on the SE Pillar of Kedar Dome (6830m) in the Gangtori region of the Indian Garwhal.
Amico Fragile: Sardina multi-pitch 7c+/8a
05/10/2006 - Climbing
Amico Fragile: Sardina multi-pitch 7c+/8a
In August the Italians Marco Vago and Simone Pedeferri completed their new route up M.te Donneittu (Codula de Luna, Sardinia) called Amico Fragile and graded 7c+/8a .
Ondra Benes repeats Silbergeier
12/09/2006 - Climbing
Ondra Benes repeats Silbergeier
On July 7th 2006 Ondra Benes from the Czech Republic made a swift repeat of Beat Kammerlander's legendary Silbergeier 8b+ in Rätikon, Switzerland.
Robert Jasper frees the Yeti on Eiger North Face
11/08/2006 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper frees the Yeti on Eiger North Face
On 16 July the German mountaineer Robert Jasper teamed up with Stefan Eder from Austria to make the first free ascent of Yeti, the route fist climbed in 1998 by the Italians Andrea Forlini and Gianni Faggiana on the North Face of the Eiger.
Bereziartu and Otegui free Divina Comedia
10/07/2006 - Climbing
Bereziartu and Otegui free Divina Comedia
Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegui have made the first free ascent of the 1981 aid route Divina Comedia 7c in the Ordesa National Park, Spain.
European Bouldering Championship 2006 cancelled
03/07/2006 - Competitions
European Bouldering Championship 2006 cancelled
The European Bouldering Championship 2006 has been cancelled due to insufficient safety measures.
Leichtfried blazes Illuminati M11+/WI 6+
07/02/2006 - Alpinism
Leichtfried blazes Illuminati M11+/WI 6+
On 24 January Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena (South Tyrol) N. Italy . The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+.
Cristian Brenna autumn update
19/12/2005 - Climbing
Cristian Brenna autumn update
Cristian Brenna climbed in the Czech Republic andSardinia where he repeated "Sapientino" (8c) and "Anime Salve" (8b+) and on-sighted "XL" 8a/a+, "Raoni" 8a and "Totem" 8a at Cala Fuili, and "Manifesto" 8a at Jerzu.
Larcher and Vigiani repeat Sur le fil des apparences,
30/09/2005 - Alpinism
Larcher and Vigiani repeat Sur le fil des apparences,
On 14/09 Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani made the first repeat and first on-sight of 'Sur le fil des apparences', first ascended in 2003 by Philippe Mussatto and Rémy Duhoux on the Specchio di Sara Pillar on the south face of the Marmolada, Dolomites.
Il Piccolo Principe, Punta Larsei, new route
16/09/2005 - Climbing
Il Piccolo Principe, Punta Larsei, new route
Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato have made the first ascent of "Piccolo Principe" 250m, 8 pitches, max 7a+. on the south face of Punta dei Larsei, Sella, Dolomites.
Lynn Hill and Katie Brown's free ascent of Leaning Tower
11/08/2005 - Interviews
Lynn Hill and Katie Brown's free ascent of Leaning Tower
Last July Lynn Hill and Katie Brown made a free ascent of Leaning Tower's West Face (Yosemite, U.S.A.).
Taghia Fantasia, Morocco
15/06/2005 - Climbing
Taghia Fantasia, Morocco
In May 2005 Eliza Kubarska, Przemek Klimek and David Kaszlikowski made the first ascent of one of the longest free climbs in the Atlas mountain range (Taghia), Fantasia 7b+/c, 700m on Tagouimmt N’Tsouiannt, Morocco.
Roda di Vael: Moulin rouge dance for Tondini and Sartori
22/03/2005 - Alpinism
Roda di Vael: Moulin rouge dance for Tondini and Sartori
On 17 March Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori carried out the third ascent (and first winter ascent) of “Moulin Rouge” on the red-faced Roda di Vael in the Dolomites, first climbed in June 2002 by Oswald Celva and Christof Hainz.

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