3110 News found

Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.

Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of 'Northern Twilight' (M7, WI6) on the same face. 22-year-old Dolmans...

On 7 January 2023 Swiss climber Jonas Schild has repeated 'Le Voyage', the E10 at Annot first ascended by James Pearson in 2017 and reputed to be the most difficult trad climb France.

Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

After three years of effort, on 30 December 2022 Alviero Garau and Davide Lagomarsino completed the first ascent of 'Crysalis by Grenke' (550m, 7a+ max, 6a+ obligatory) up the SE Face of Punta Giradili close to Baunei in Sardinia.

The deadline for the 2023 First Ascent Expedition Award is 28 February 2023. Promoted by the UK-based charity GRIT&ROCK, the annual expedition grant pool of USD10,000 is aimed at supporting female advancement in mountaineering

At Saint Léger du Ventoux in France Austrian climber Eva Hammelmüller has repeated 'La ligne claire' (8c+).

Austrian climber Angela Eiter introduces Bat Cave, the new crag at Buzet in Croatia she bolted with climbing partner Bernie Ruech

At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports

At Kochel am See in Germany Martina Demmel has repeated Heim nach Afrika (9a) and Chaos in Palumbia (8c+) at Atlantiswand.

In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.

On 27/11/2022 up the SE Face of the Grandes Murailles (Pennine Alps) François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Hyper Couloir delle Grandes Murailles - Couloir Franco Oberti'.

On the south face of Torre Trieste on Mount Civetta (Dolomites, Italy) two new rock climbs have been established, simultaneously and completely by chance, by two very strong teams comprised of Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini, and of Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer

Canadian rock climber Bronwyn Hodgins has repeated the horizontal roof crack Necronomicon (5.13d/14a) at Moab, Canyonlands USA. The crack climb was first ascended by Jean-Pierre Ouellet in 2011.

The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.

On 22/11/2022, Italian climber Jacopo Larcher successfully made the 3rd ascent of the famous trad crack climb Meltdown in Yosemite Valley, USA.