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Ale Zeni climbing Malvazija at Dvigrad in Croatia
Photo by archivio Alessandro Zeni
Ale Zeni climbing Malvazija at Dvigrad in Croatia
Photo by archivio Alessandro Zeni
Ilenia Flora and Ale Zeni after his ascent of Malvazija at Dvigrad in Croatia
Photo by archivio Alessandro Zeni

Alessandro Zeni repeats Malvazija at Dvigrad in Croatia

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At Dvigrad in Croatia the Italian climber Ale Zeni has repeated Malvasia, the legendary sport climb freed by Manolo in 1988.

A lightning trip to Dvigrad in Croatia netted Alessandro Zeni a fast repeat of Malvazija, the legendary slab at Dvigrad bolted by Maurizio Zanolla in 1987 and freed the magician a year later. With a grade of 8b+, it was considered one of the hardest routes in the world at the time. Over the years its reputation increased significantly, also because it was considered impossible by some after holds had allegedly broken off.

In 2010 US climber Cody Roth managed to redpoint the line, suggesting for what he had just climbed the grade of 8c+. Zeni, who in 2020 established the 9b slab Cryptography at Saint Loup in Switzerland, required four days of attempts for his repeat and has now confirmed the grade put forward by Roth. Zeni’s is a beautiful and rare ascent of this intense slab that evidently continues to inspire.

TOPO: Dvigrad, Croatia

Alessandro Zeni thanks his sponsors La Sportiva, Karpos and Grivel

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On 11 January 2020 Italian climber Alessandro Zeni made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna at the crag Saint Loup in Switzerland. The 28-year-old has put forward the grade 9b, indicating it is it one of the most difficult slabs in the world.
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On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The story of Malvasia as told by Manolo and an account by Urban Golob

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