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Josune Bereziartu climbs Powerade, 8c+ at Vadiello
25/05/2007 - Climbing
Josune Bereziartu climbs Powerade, 8c+ at Vadiello
On 16/05/2007 Josune Bereziartu redpointed Powerade, 8c+ at Vadiello, Huesca.
Hansjörg Auer free solo Attraverso il Pesce - Fish route - in Marmolada
23/05/2007 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer free solo Attraverso il Pesce - Fish route - in Marmolada
On 29/04 the Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer carried out the second solo ascent of the legendary Via attraverso il Pesce on the south face of the Marmolada, after Maurizio Giordani's 1990 ascent. This is the first free solo without ropes.
Iceland ice climbing expedition report
28/03/2007 - Alpinism
Iceland ice climbing expedition report
At the end of February Albert Leichtfried, Markus Bendler, Ines Papert and Audrey Gariepy travelled to Iceland to explore its potential in memory of their friend Harald Berger who died tragically in December 2006.
Dry tooling: Svab flashes Mix isch fix at the Grotta di Landro
12/03/2007 - Climbing
Dry tooling: Svab flashes Mix isch fix at the Grotta di Landro
Erik Svab flashes the dry tooling route "Mix isch fix" M10+ at the Grotta di Landro, Dolomites.
Melloblocco 2007 facts and figures
08/03/2007 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2007 facts and figures
On Saturday 5th and Sunday 6th of May 2007, Val di Mello will host the fourth edition of Melloblocco, the international outdoors bouldering meeting in Northern Italy
Dave MacLeod repeats Odi Social 8c+
20/02/2007 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod repeats Odi Social 8c+
Dave MacLeod has climbed his first 8c+, "L’odi Social" at Siurana, Spain to discover how this compares to cutting edge trad routes in Britain, such as his Rhapsody E11 7a.
British trad extremes
18/01/2007 - Climbing
British trad extremes
James Pearson makes the first ascent of "The Promise" E10 7a, at Burbage North, Dave McLeod repeats "Blind Vision" at Froggat and Ben Cossey from Australia makes an audacious headtorch repeat of John Dunne's famous The Parthion Shot E9 6c.
Martina Cufar and her Midlife crisis 8b
13/09/2006 - Climbing
Martina Cufar and her Midlife crisis 8b
Martina Cufar repeats Midlife crisis 8b at Warmbad, Austria.
Uli Biaho new route by Kopold and Cmarik
03/08/2006 - Alpinism
Uli Biaho new route by Kopold and Cmarik
Dodo Kopold and Gabo Cmarik have made the f.a. of the NW Face of Uli Biaho 6417m, Karakorum, Pakistan. They also climbed a route up Hainabrakk East Tower (5800m) to 5375m.
Ines Papert first female repeat of Camillotto Pellesier
28/07/2006 - Climbing
Ines Papert first female repeat of Camillotto Pellesier
On 20 July Ines Papert from Germany made an impressive first female ascent of Camillotto Pellesier on the North Face of Cima Grande, Dolomites. The old aid route, first ascended in 1967 by E. Mauro and M. Minuzzo, had been freed in 2004 by Mauro Bubu Bole at F8b.
ROVERETO BOULDERING WORLD CUP 2006 - day by day
10/05/2006 - Competitions
ROVERETO BOULDERING WORLD CUP 2006 - day by day
The entire program of the Rovereto Bouldering World Cup schduled for 12-14 May 2006 at the Palazzetto dello Sport, Rovereto, Italy.
Luca Zardini repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
29/04/2006 - Climbing
Luca Zardini repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
During the Easter break Luca Zardini carried out the first repeat of Drumtime, the route first ascended by Riccardo “Sky” Scarian at Fonzaso (BL) at the end of March.
XV Piolet d'or to Steve House and Vincent Anderson
13/02/2006 - Alpinism
XV Piolet d'or to Steve House and Vincent Anderson
On 10/02 in Grenoble the golden ice axe, the mountaineering oscar 2005, was awarded to Steve House and Vincent Anderson for their new route up the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat.
Bouldering at Hueco, Fontainebleau and Cresciano
24/01/2006 - Climbing
Bouldering at Hueco, Fontainebleau and Cresciano
At Hueco Tanks Fred Nicole makes the first ascent of "Terremer" and Dave Graham repeats "Esperanza". At Fontainebleau Michele Caminati repeats "Khéops" 8B, while at Cresciano Martin Moser repeats "The Dagger" 8B+
Le nez, P.ta Croz, Grandes Jorasses. New route for Bole and Cortese
03/10/2005 - Alpinism
Le nez, P.ta Croz, Grandes Jorasses. New route for Bole and Cortese
From the end of July to 4 Spetember Mauro 'Bubu' Bole and Mario Cortese made the first ascent of Le nez (1300m, max 7c), on the north face of P.ta Croz, Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc.
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
04/08/2005 - Climbing
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m); and “Mezza luna nascente” (270 m, 7c max, 7a+ obl.)...