1367 News found

British rock climber Steve McClure has made the second ascent of Lexicon, the E11 trad climb established only recently at Pavey Ark in England by Neil Gresham.

British rock climber Neil Gresham has made the first ascent of Lexicon at Pavey Ark in England. Graded E11 7a, it checks in as one of the hardest trad climbs in Great Britain.

Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about his 4 August first ascent with his daughter Anna Coubalová of Papilio (VII+, 235m) up the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites.

The Lead Climbing World Cup was won yesterday at Kranj in Slovenia by Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret. The last, decisive stage,was won by Masahiro Higuchi from Japan and by Garnbret who, after claiming gold in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, caps a season that has no equal.

Juho Knuuttila (26) from Finland and Misha Mishin (27) from Russia have established Ørneeggen, the first climb up the West Face of Mt. Storskiva (848m) on the island of Moskensøya off the Lofoten islands in Norway. Knuuttila reports about the 'true adventure climbing' they experienced in August 2021.

German alpinists Stefan Glowacz and Philipp Hans have managed to establish a new line on Pic de Bure in the Dauphiné Prealps in France. The route is a variation to the classic Pilier Est established in 1961 by André Bertrand, René Desmaison and Yves Pollet-Villard.

Mountaineers Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev and Alex Tyulyupo have established a series of new routes in the Western Kokshaal-Too mountain range in Kyrgyzstan. Highlights included ascents of Pik Alpinist (5482m) and Pik Korolyova (5816m).

A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.

Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Leire (300m, 6b) a new multi-pitch route on the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.

The Dolorock Climbing Festival 2021 took place from 1 to 31 July in Valle di Landro. Over 140 climbers from 5 different countries took part in the climbing meeting of the Dolomites.

On the north face of Presolana Angelo Contessi and Leonardo Gheza have made the first ascent of Presolana Holiday. The new multi-pitch rock climb tackles an independent line between via Bosio and Le Medaglie di Matley. Gheza reports.

On the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou e Manu Ponce have established Super Canalizos (6c+, 475m) describing the multi-pitch climb as a ‘perfect sculpture.’

Austrian mountain guide Christoph Schranz has established, and subsequently freed, Ocha-Schau-Schuich, a 300m multi-pitch alpine climb graded 8c on Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria

The penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2021 was won on Tuesday night by Laura Rogora from Italy and Sean Bailey from the USA in Chamonix in France. Stefano Ghisolfi placed a wonderful second, together with America’s Natalia Grossman. Aleksandra Totkova from Bulgaria and Martin Stranik from the Czech...

On 13/06/2021 the brothers Simon and Manuel Gietl established a new rock climb on the north face of Paresberg / Cima Pares in Rautal / Val di Rudo, a side valley of Val Badia in the Italian Dolomites. Simon Gietl reports.

Mountain guide Daniel Rogger introduces the five best crags in Höhlensteintal / Valle di Landro in the Dolomites, ideally suited for the Dolorock Climbing Festival scheduled to take place in July: Landro Classico, Scheeweg / Franchi, Stube and Balkonien, Grotte di Landro and the Militare Alpini crag