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Climbs rebolted in Sardinia on Punta Cusidore, Bruncu Nieddu, Monte Udde
28/05/2025 - Climbing
Climbs rebolted in Sardinia on Punta Cusidore, Bruncu Nieddu, Monte Udde
In Sardinia, Italy, a group of mountain guides and aspirant guides have re-bolted the multi-pitch climbs 'L’ombra della mia mano' on Punta Cusidore, 'Legittimo bastardo' and 'Stella di Sangue' on Bruncu Nieddu and 'Sguercia' on Monte Uddè, as well as 4 climbs at the crag Monte Maccione crag. Matteo Canova,...
All-woman team establishes 'Apollo 13' in Rio Turbio IV valley (Patagonia)
25/03/2025 - Alpinism
All-woman team establishes 'Apollo 13' in Rio Turbio IV valley (Patagonia)
An all-woman team comprised of Julia Cassou, Rocío Rodríguez Guiñazú, Fay Manners, Caroline North and Belén Prados spent five weeks in Northern Patagonia's Río Turbio IV valley, where they made the first ascent of 'Apollo 13' on the previously unclimbed El Cohete peak. Manners reports.
Two new rock climbs in Fanis (Dolomites) by Simon Kehrer, Marta Willeit, Hubert Eisendle
23/12/2024 - Climbing
Two new rock climbs in Fanis (Dolomites) by Simon Kehrer, Marta Willeit, Hubert Eisendle
In November, South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of two new multipitch climbs in the Fanes group of the Dolomites, Italy: 'Lastun de Mareo' on Muntejela de Senes / Monte Sella di Sennes with Marta Willeit and 'Via dla Surité' on Piz Parom with Hubert Eisendle.
Crowdfunding campaign to replace ageing anchors at Masua in Sardinia
18/11/2024 - Climbing
Crowdfunding campaign to replace ageing anchors at Masua in Sardinia
A fundraising campaign has been launched to rebolt the most at-risk sport climbs at Castello dell’Iride, one of the most beautiful crags in Sardinia.
Nathan Brown adds Civil Disobedience to Angels Landing in Zion Canyon
18/09/2024 - Climbing
Nathan Brown adds Civil Disobedience to Angels Landing in Zion Canyon
Earlier this year American alpinist and excavation contractor Nathan Brown, with the help of Jackson Marvell and Sam Mack, made the first ascent of 'Civil Disobedience' (V 5.9 A3) the right of the historic 'Lowe Route' on the north face of Angels Landing, Zion National Park, USA. Brown, who climbed...
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
24/08/2023 - Alpinism
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection
15/08/2023 - Alpinism
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection
Italian mountaineers Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi and Tommaso Vection have made the first ascent of Super Elios on Tour de Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
21/06/2023 - Climbing
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b
Sardinia climbing: three multipitches by Marco Pellegrini on Baunei's Punta su Mulone
07/04/2023 - Alpinism
Sardinia climbing: three multipitches by Marco Pellegrini on Baunei's Punta su Mulone
Marco Pellegrini has made the first ascent of three multipitch sport climbs up the south face of Punta su Mulone above Pedra Longa in the Baunei area of Sardinia, Italy: 'Penso Positivo' with Manuel Zambanini, 'Giumar' with Giulia Orlandi and 'Tempi Interessanti' with Luca Vallata.
New mixed climb on Aiguille de la Brenva in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, Giovanni Ravizza
31/03/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Aiguille de la Brenva in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, Giovanni Ravizza
On 6 March 2023 the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra and Giovanni Ravizza made the first ascent of 'Nati Liberi' on the east face of Aiguille de la Brenva, in the Mont Blanc massif. Bruni reports.
Big new climb up Punta Giradili in Sardinia
10/01/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb up Punta Giradili in Sardinia
After three years of effort, on 30 December 2022 Alviero Garau and Davide Lagomarsino completed the first ascent of 'Crysalis by Grenke' (550m, 7a+ max, 6a+ obligatory) up the SE Face of Punta Giradili close to Baunei in Sardinia.
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
31/12/2022 - Climbing
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
16/12/2022 - Climbing
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.