69 News found

The Millennium Cave at Cala Gonone is one of the most famous climbing spots in Sardinia, but also one of the coastal crags most at risk of bolt corrosion on the Italian island. In order to address safety issues, since 2017 Maurizio Oviglia has undertaken a systematic bolt replacement campaign,...

The safety of bolts on climbs close to the sea remains a very important issue, not only at the crags and multipitch routes on Sardinia and those overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, but also elsewhere. To avoid future accidents due to bolt failure, Maurizio Oviglia calls for greater awareness among all...

Nicholas Farenzena reports about 'Baila Morena', the new climb he established with Gabriele Walicki on the south face of Corno del Framont in the Civetta - Moiazza of the Dolomites.

Massimo Sacchi and Marco Sterni have rebolted 'La bellezza non conosce paura', their small masterpiece established ground-up in 1997 on Monte Robon in the Julian Alps, Italy

In Sardinia, Italy, a group of mountain guides and aspirant guides have re-bolted the multi-pitch climbs 'L’ombra della mia mano' on Punta Cusidore, 'Legittimo bastardo' and 'Stella di Sangue' on Bruncu Nieddu and 'Sguercia' on Monte Uddè, as well as 4 climbs at the crag Monte Maccione crag. Matteo Canova,...

An all-woman team comprised of Julia Cassou, Rocío Rodríguez Guiñazú, Fay Manners, Caroline North and Belén Prados spent five weeks in Northern Patagonia's Río Turbio IV valley, where they made the first ascent of 'Apollo 13' on the previously unclimbed El Cohete peak. Manners reports.

In November, South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of two new multipitch climbs in the Fanes group of the Dolomites, Italy: 'Lastun de Mareo' on Muntejela de Senes / Monte Sella di Sennes with Marta Willeit and 'Via dla Surité' on Piz Parom with Hubert Eisendle.

A fundraising campaign has been launched to rebolt the most at-risk sport climbs at Castello dell’Iride, one of the most beautiful crags in Sardinia.

Earlier this year American alpinist and excavation contractor Nathan Brown, with the help of Jackson Marvell and Sam Mack, made the first ascent of 'Civil Disobedience' (V 5.9 A3) the right of the historic 'Lowe Route' on the north face of Angels Landing, Zion National Park, USA. Brown, who climbed...

Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.

Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).

The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.

Italian mountaineers Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi and Tommaso Vection have made the first ascent of Super Elios on Tour de Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.

After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b

Marco Pellegrini has made the first ascent of three multipitch sport climbs up the south face of Punta su Mulone above Pedra Longa in the Baunei area of Sardinia, Italy: 'Penso Positivo' with Manuel Zambanini, 'Giumar' with Giulia Orlandi and 'Tempi Interessanti' with Luca Vallata.