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Shisha Pangma: 14th 8000er for Edurne Pasaban, 11th for Mario Panzeri
17/05/2010 - Alpinism
Shisha Pangma: 14th 8000er for Edurne Pasaban, 11th for Mario Panzeri
On 17 May Edurne Pasaban from Spain reached the summit of Shisha Pangma, completing her tour of the 14 highest mountains in the world. She summited along with Italian Mario Panzeri (11th 8000er).
Miss Oh Eun-Sun crowns all 8000ers, but one alpinist still in difficulty on Annapurna.
28/04/2010 - Alpinism
Miss Oh Eun-Sun crowns all 8000ers, but one alpinist still in difficulty on Annapurna.
On 27/04/2010 the South Korean alpinist Miss Oh Eun-Sun reached the summit of Annapurna and, in doing so, has become the first woman in the world to climb all fourteen 8000ers. In the meantime though an alpinist is in trouble on the 10th highest mountain in the world...
Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
19/04/2010 - Alpinism
Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
On 17 April Edurne Pasaban from Spain's Basque country reached the summit of Annapurna, her 13th 8000m peak, while Joao Garcia from Portugal completed the collection of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Asier Izaguirre, Alex Chicón, Nacho Orviz and the Sherpa Mingma, Pasang and Gempu from the Pasaban...
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
In mid-January Renan Ozturk (USA) and Cory Richards (CAN) carried out the first ascent of the Central South Buttress of Tawoche (Khumbu Valley, Nepal) in alpine style (1200m ED2 VI 5.10 M4/5).
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
02/12/2009 - Alpinism
Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
From 20 - 22 November the Italians Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Meli and Francesco Cantù carried out the first ascent of "Ramri Keti" (1100m, WI5+/M7/5a) up the North Face of Hama Jomjuma (5970m, Khumbu, Nepal).
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
20/11/2009 - Alpinism
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
Lino Lacedelli, 84, passed away in Cortina, Italy this morning. In 1954 the member of the famous Scoiattoli mountaineering club became the first person to reach the summit of K2, together with Achille Compagnoni.
Tomaz Humar
19/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar
The charismatic Slovenian climber who became one of the world's leading mountaineers, remembered by British journalist Ed Douglas.
Bohinjska Bela, climbing in Slovenia
25/08/2009 - Climbing
Bohinjska Bela, climbing in Slovenia
Located close to picturesque Lake Bled, Bohinjska Bela is one of the most interesting climbing areas in Slovenia.
Oh Eun-Sun summits Gasherbrum I, her 13th 8000er
04/08/2009 - Alpinism
Oh Eun-Sun summits Gasherbrum I, her 13th 8000er
Yesterday the South Korean mountaineer Oh Eun-Sun summited Gasherbrum I (8068m), her 13th 8000m peak.
Veikka Gustafson summits all 14 8000ers
27/07/2009 - Alpinism
Veikka Gustafson summits all 14 8000ers
On 26/07/2009 Veikka Gustafson reached the summit of Gasherbrum I together with Japanese climber Kazuya Hiraide and four Bulgarians. For the mountaineer from Finland this seals his bid to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks without supplementary oxygen.
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
09/06/2009 - Alpinism
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
On 5 June Giuliano De Marchi, a doctor and strong mountaineer from Belluno, died on Monte Antelao, Dolomites. Michel Barbiero, his companion in Alaska 2007, remembers him.
More about Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and the questions of style
03/06/2009 - Alpinism
More about Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and the questions of style
The letter by Andreas Dick concerning 'A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks' and the reply by the author of the article, Manuel Lugli. Furthermore we've published the thoughts by Cristina Castagna, the Italian mountaineer from Valdagno who has climbed 4 8000m peaks and...
A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks
26/05/2009 - Alpinism
A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks
Edurne Pasaban with Kanchenjunga and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner with Lhotse have reached the summit of 12 8000m peaks. Nives Meroi and Romano Benet on the other hand have had to abandon their Kanchenjunga summit bid and have therefore climbed 11. The thoughts of Manuel Lugli about this female "race" to complete...

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