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Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
14/02/2012 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
The XX Piolet d'Or will take place in Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix (France) from 21 - 24 March 2012. Here are the 6 nominations for the coveted golden ice axe, while Frenchman Robert Paragot will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Spray On... Top!, Emmett and Premrl complete first ascent of Helmcken Falls testpiece
13/02/2012 - Alpinism
Spray On... Top!, Emmett and Premrl complete first ascent of Helmcken Falls testpiece
Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have carried out the first ascent of the superb mixed ice climb Spray On... Top! (230m, W10, M9+) at the Helmcken Falls, Canada, the route Emmett had started with Will Gadd. Tim Emmett shares the details.
Iker Pou, the video of Nit de bruixes 9a+ at Margalef
10/02/2012 - Climbing
Iker Pou, the video of Nit de bruixes 9a+ at Margalef
The video of the first ascent of Nit de bruixes 9a+ at Margalef in Spain by Iker Pou.
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
09/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
Ironman at Eptingen, new D14+ for Robert Jasper
07/02/2012 - Alpinism
Ironman at Eptingen, new D14+ for Robert Jasper
Robert Jasper has freed the 'total dry' route Ironman D14+ at Eptingen in Switzerland.
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
07/02/2012 - Interviews
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama after the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, carried out on 20 and 21 January 2012 with Peter Ortner.
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
03/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
Italian alpinist Mario Conti shares his views about the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor route on the SE Face of Cerro Torre.
Illuminati in Val Lunga for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
31/01/2012 - Alpinism
Illuminati in Val Lunga for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
On 27/01/2012 Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer carried out the first female ascent of Illuminati, the incredible mixed route established by Albert Leichtfried in 2006 up in Val Lunga, Selva Gardena (Italy).
Tardivel and Janody, new descent off Mt. Arcalod in France
Tardivel and Janody, new descent off Mt. Arcalod in France
The Frenchmen Pierre Tardivel and Jérémy Janody have skied a new line down the East Face of Mount Arcalod (2217m), Bauges massif, Savoia, France.
Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau
26/01/2012 - Climbing
Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau
Two videos documenting Adam Ondra's first bouldering trip to Fontainebleau, France.
Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012: Burgada and Roux win in Andorra
23/01/2012 - Competitions
Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012: Burgada and Roux win in Andorra
In Andorra history repeated itself yesterday. The first stage of the Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012 was won once again by Kilian Jornet Burgada and Laetitia Roux.
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
Jacopo Larcher and the 8b+ flash at Siurana
22/01/2012 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher and the 8b+ flash at Siurana
At Siurana in Spain Jacopo Larcher from Italy has flashed the climb Kale Borroka 8b+. His story.
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
News from Nanga Parbat: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to explore their hopes and the mountain itself. Yesterday they ventured to beyond 5800m to reach the base of the couloir which they will attempt to climb via their (new) route to the summit.
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
19/01/2012 - Alpinism
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
On the North Face of Petit Dru (3754m) Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith have carried out what is likely to be the first free ascent of the Voie Lesueur (ED3, M8+, 900m) with some drytooling sections and a new variation finish.

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