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Arco Rock Legends 2010, the nominations
22/06/2010 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2010, the nominations
All the nominations for the V edition of the Arco Rock Legends which will take place on Saturday 17 July 2010 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) during the XXIV Rock Master. This year the legendary competition has been brought forward from September to July as it serves as the pre-event...
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the North Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.
Wild Country, new route on Telendos, Kalymnos
09/06/2010 - Climbing
Wild Country, new route on Telendos, Kalymnos
Urs Odermatt and Peter Keller have carried out the first ascent of Wild Country (6a, 265m) on the island of Telendos, opposite Kalymnos in Greece.
Tim Emmett adds E10 to Stennis Ford, Pembroke
08/06/2010 - Climbing
Tim Emmett adds E10 to Stennis Ford, Pembroke
Tim Emmett has made the first ascent of 'Muy Caliente!' E10 6c at Stennis Ford, Pembroke
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
04/06/2010 - Climbing
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Reinhard Ranner have carried out the first ascent of Il volo di Pegasus (260m, 7a) on Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily.
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
04/06/2010 - Alpinism
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
On 22 May 2010 Sergio De Leo, Michel Coranotte, Marcello Sanguineti and Marco Appino carried out the first ascent of "Plein Sud" (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+), a new route up the incredible wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Himalayan helicopter rescues
25/05/2010 - Alpinism
Himalayan helicopter rescues
Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
19/05/2010 - Alpinism
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
In winter 2010 Florian and Martin Riegler carried out the first ascent of Schachmatt - Checkmate- 1000m M10+ WI5 55°) on the North Face of Gran Zebrù.
De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
06/05/2010 - Climbing
De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
On 16 April Maurizio Oviglia and Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of De rerum natura (230m, 7c max, 7a obbl, /RS2+/II) on Punta u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica.
El Gigante, Mexico, new route
27/04/2010 - Climbing
El Gigante, Mexico, new route
In March an international group of climbers including Leopoldo Faria from Portugal forged a 400m line up poor rock on El Gigante in Mexico.
Marco Da Pozzo has left us
26/04/2010 - Alpinism
Marco Da Pozzo has left us
Marco Da Pozzo died this morning after falling from the roof of the church steeple he was fixing at Cortina d'Ampezzo. An extremely talented climber and alpinist, Marco Da Pozzo was one of the most famous and highly regarded members of the Scoiattoli mountaineering club and Cortina d'Ampezzo Mountain Guides.
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
    21/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
    In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the North Face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
    Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
    20/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
    Even if spring is at the doorstep, it's worth analysing the climbs of Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, who this winter carried out the first ascent in Patagonia together with Roger Schäli before repeating the famous Phantom der Zinner on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites together with Marc...

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