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Everest 60 years between legend and business
29/05/2013 - Alpinism
Everest 60 years between legend and business
On May 29, 60 years ago Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary stood on top of the world for the first time ever. Since then Everest has continued to be a symbol, hovering somewhere between a legend and "consumerism". By Erminio Ferrari.
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
24/05/2013 - Climbing
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.
Monte Forato, NNE Face ski descent in Julian Alps
Monte Forato, NNE Face ski descent in Julian Alps
Using the recent first repeat of the NNE Face of Monte Forato, here is the first descent story by Slovenia's Marko Kern, followed by a report by Marco Milanese, his descent carried out on 7 April together with Enrico Mosetti and Andrea Fusari. Until 2011, this face was regarded as...
Melloblocco, 2013, day eight: climbing without limits
04/05/2013 - Events
Melloblocco, 2013, day eight: climbing without limits
While over 1300 Melloblockers have already registered and many more are expected, sunny Val Masino welcomed the initiative Climbing without limits promoted by the region of Lombardy, CIP, FASI, ERSAF which aims at a different form of taking to the mountains, for everyone. Paraclimbing athletes Silvia Parente, Simone Salvagnin and...
Melloblocco 2013 - day one: Chinese lanterns fill the sky
27/04/2013 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2013 - day one: Chinese lanterns fill the sky
Saturday 27/04/2013. Last night marked the start of the 10th Melloblocco, the festival that will transform Val di Mello - Val Masino into the world's capital for bouldering and climbing until Sunday 5 May. At the Filorera Centre the program for the next 10 days was announced, as well as...
Melloblocco, 10 years of history, climbing and culture in Val di Mello – Val Masino
24/04/2013 - Events
Melloblocco, 10 years of history, climbing and culture in Val di Mello – Val Masino
Melloblocco returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino from 26 April to 5 May. This is the world's biggest international bouldering and climbing meeting. This edition will be remembered not only because it marks the 10th anniversary of what has become much more than simply a classic climbing event,...
Piolets d'Or 2013: the incomprehensible universal tie
08/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: the incomprehensible universal tie
Some thoughts about the Jury verdict of the 21st Piolet d'Or 2013 which assigned the award to all six nominated ascents.
Alexander Megos interview after world's first 9a onsight
29/03/2013 - Interviews
Alexander Megos interview after world's first 9a onsight
Interview with 19-year-old German climber Alexander Megos after the historic first on-sight of a 9a climb, Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain.
Climbing gear stolen at Moon Climbing
27/03/2013 - Climbing
Climbing gear stolen at Moon Climbing
Last Saturday 3500 items were stolen from climbing clothing company Moon Climbing. The founder Ben Moon has asked the climbing community for support.
Important new winter additions to Ben Nevis
18/03/2013 - Alpinism
Important new winter additions to Ben Nevis
Two new winter climbs have been added to Ben Nevis in Scotland: Deadly Presence (VIII,7, Iain Small, Doug Hawthorn) and Shooting Star (VI,6, Robin Clothier, Richard Bentley).
Grand Muveran West Face steep skiing action in Switzerland
Grand Muveran West Face steep skiing action in Switzerland
On 2 March Sébastien de Sainte Marie, Olov Isaksson and Gilles Bornet skied the West Face of Grand Muveran (1600m, 5.2/5.3 E4) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps.
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
07/03/2013 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
The thoughts of Simone Moro about high-altitude winter mountaineering on the world's Eight-thousanders and about the events which have taken place and are currently unfolding on Broad Peak.
Revelation, the poem by Charlotte Davies
22/02/2013 - Book-press
Revelation, the poem by Charlotte Davies
Revelation, the poem by Charlotte Davies in the video by French filmmaker Sebastien Montaz-Rosset.
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
30/12/2012 - Climbing
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
On 10 December 2012 the bolts were removed from the sports climb Eterno Riposo, Eternal Rest, at Ceredo in Italy. On his blog Andrea Tosi, the man who first bolted the climb and now removed the bolts, explains his actions.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
Continuing to dream of Patrick Edlinger
19/11/2012 - Climbing
Continuing to dream of Patrick Edlinger
While the grief continues regarding the death Patrick Edlinger, we have published a portrait of this climbing legend that was first published in 2005 in the book Rock Master.