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Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen
18/01/2021 - Alpinism
Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen
Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja has reported that he climbed K2 in winter without the use of supplementary oxygen.
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
08/01/2021 - Alpinism
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
05/01/2021 - Climbing
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
American rock climber George Whitmore has died at the age of 89. Together with Wayne Merry and Warren Harding he made the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 1958.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
24/12/2020 - Book-press
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Nicolini, Gachet Mollaret, Anselmet and Fatton win in Ponte di Legno
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Nicolini, Gachet Mollaret, Anselmet and Fatton win in Ponte di Legno
The first stage of the 2020/2021 Ski Mountaineering World Cup took place last weekend in Ponte di Legno, Italy. The Sprint race was won by Marianne Fatton and Thibault Anselmet while the Vertical Race was dominated by Axelle Gachet Mollaret and Federico Nicolini.
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
21/12/2020 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
Watch the first episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia, a journey to Finale Ligure exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's
Gran Couloir della Levannetta climbed above Valle dell’Orco
15/12/2020 - Alpinism
Gran Couloir della Levannetta climbed above Valle dell’Orco
In October 2020 mountain guides Umberto Bado and Giancarlo Maritano made the first ascent of Gran Couloir della Levannetta, a new mixed climb on the north face of Levannetta above Valle Orco, Italy.
Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli establish Egidius on Gross Ruchen in Switzerland
14/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli establish Egidius on Gross Ruchen in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli have established Egidius, a new mixed climb on the north face of Gross Ruchen (3137m) in the Glarus Alps in Switzerland. Arnold had previously attempted the line with Stephan Ruoss in 2009.
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...
Viktoriia Meshkova & Jernej Kruder crowned European Boulder Champions 2020
23/11/2020 - Competitions
Viktoriia Meshkova & Jernej Kruder crowned European Boulder Champions 2020
In Moscow today Viktoriia Meshkova from Russia and Jernej Kruder from Slovenia won the 2020 European Bouldering Championship. Chloe Caulier and Sergei Luzhetskii won silver, Stasa Gejo and Nikolai Iarilovets bronze.
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
26/10/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
On 20/10/2020 Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Beyond integral 9b/+ and Terra Nova 8c+ at the crag Pic Saint Loup in France.
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition
12/10/2020 - Alpinism
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition
In October 2019 an Austrian expedition comprised of Alexander Blümel, Much Mayr, Peter Mühlburger and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Baba Ji on Raldang Spire in the Baspa Valley, Kinnaur, India. Mühlburger reports.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
New Picos de Europa 8c multi-pitch by Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá
11/09/2020 - Alpinism
New Picos de Europa 8c multi-pitch by Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Kico Cerdá have made the first free ascent of Rayu (8c, 600m) on the south face of the Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain.
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.