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New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
The limits of sport climbing: 9a soon a warm-up?
15/09/2009 - Climbing
The limits of sport climbing: 9a soon a warm-up?
Patxi Usobiaga from Spain has climbed Hades 9a at the Austrian crag Götterwand second go, just like Adam Ondra on Der Heilige Graal 9a in Germany's Frankenjura.
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
08/09/2009 - Climbing
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
06/09/2009 - Competitions
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
Angela Eiter from Austria has won her fifth Rock Master, Ramòn Julien Puigblanque his fourth. With these victories the two equal the records set by legendary climbers Lynn Hill and Francois Legrand.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
02/09/2009 - Alpinism
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian route on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
28/08/2009 - Climbing
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
Two of Britain's most emblematic sport routes, Hubble 8c+ at Raven Tor and Liquid Ambar 8c at Lower Pen Trwyn, have recently been repeated by Steve McClure and Pete Robins respectively. The two climbs in question were established in 1990 by none other than Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt and...
Manfred Stuffer solo climbing on the Sella, Dolomites
25/08/2009 - Climbing
Manfred Stuffer solo climbing on the Sella, Dolomites
On 14/07/2009 Manfred Stuffer soloed the routes Geo, Regenbogen, Quo Vadis, Brusin and Brugger Walde on the Sella, Dolomites, in a mere 3.5 hours.
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
06/08/2009 - Climbing
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
Last June Florian Riegler, climbing with Rebecca Finch, climbed "Via della cattedrale" (max 8a+, 21 pitches) on the South Face of the Marmolada in 12 hours. This is probably the first repeat after the first free ascent at the hands of Pietro dal Prà five years ago. But above all,...
Pale di San Martino routes re-equipped
03/08/2009 - Alpinism
Pale di San Martino routes re-equipped
At the start of July the belays of three classic Dolomites climbs were re-equipped during a mountain rescue training session. The routes in question are Frisch Corradini and Franceschini-Esposito on Pala del Rifugio and Simon-Wiessner-Kess on nearby Cima del Coro in the Pale di San Martino mountain group.
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
25/06/2009 - Climbing
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
On 19/06/2009 Maurizio Zanolla, alias Manolo, on-sighted Rock and Blues at the Olympic Wall on Kalymnos, Greece.
Donnafugata on Dolomites Torre Trieste by Andrej Grmovsek
24/06/2009 - Climbing
Donnafugata on Dolomites Torre Trieste by Andrej Grmovsek
Andrej Grmovsek from Slovenia has carried out the first repeat in a single day of Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, Civetta, Dolomites.
Alexander Huber, Om and Adam Ondra
19/06/2009 - Climbing
Alexander Huber, Om and Adam Ondra
On 14/06/2009 Adam Ondra carried out the first repeat of Om 9a, the route first ascended in 1992 by Alexander Huber at Endstal in Germany.
New rock climbs in Namibia
17/06/2009 - Climbing
New rock climbs in Namibia
On a recent trip to Namibia the Americans Majka Burhardt, Peter Doucette and Kate Rutherford carried out the first ascent of two new routes on Brandberg.
Adam Ondra climbs Corona 9a+ in the Frankenjura
12/06/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbs Corona 9a+ in the Frankenjura
On 06/06/2009 Adam Ondra carried out the first repeat of Corona 9a+ in Germany's Frankenjura. The point of view of his photographer Vojtech Vrzba.

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