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Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
04/11/2004 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
Last week the Italian Ragni di Lecco celebrated the 30th anniversary of the first ascent of the emblem of Patagonian mountaineering, the West Face of Cerro Torre.
Yvon Chouinard, Time's up
28/09/2004 - Interviews
Yvon Chouinard, Time's up
In an open letter Yvon Chouinard, mountaineer, surfer, fly fisherman and founder of "Patagonia", the famous American outdoor clothing company explains how urgent and pressing the envirnmental issue is.
New route dedicated to Cadore Mountain Rescue
24/09/2004 - Alpinism
New route dedicated to Cadore Mountain Rescue
On 27 and 28 August Michele Zandegiacomo Mazzon and Simone Corte Pause made the first ascent of a new route on the south face of Cima Auronzo, Dolomites.
Greenland 2004
17/09/2004 - Alpinism
Greenland 2004
At the start of August a four-man team composed of Sergio Dalla Longa, Rosa Morotti, Ennio and Giangi Angeloni travelled to the south of Greenland to explore the immense granite walls that tower above the fjords and glaciers.
K2 Magic line for Jordi Cormoinas: success and tragedy
02/09/2004 - Alpinism
K2 Magic line for Jordi Cormoinas: success and tragedy
On 16 August 2004 at 24.00, Jordi Cormoinas, the leader of the Catalan "Tarragona Magic Line Expedition 2004", made the first repeat of K2's Magic Line. Manuel de la Matta died during the descent.
Brakk Zang: new route by Stucchi, Davila, Lazzarini, Colnago
01/09/2004 - Alpinism
Brakk Zang: new route by Stucchi, Davila, Lazzarini, Colnago
From 12 -14/08/2004 Silvestro Stucchi, Elena Davila, Anna Lazzarini and Enea Colnago made the first ascent of "Hasta la vista David" (VI+, A1), a new 750m route up the SW Face of Brakk Zang (Baltistan-Pakistan).
K2 Scoiattoli summit success!
27/07/2004 - Alpinism
K2 Scoiattoli summit success!
On 27 July 2004 at 7.15 local time Mario Dibona, Renato Sottsass, Marco Da Pozzo and Renzo Benedetti reached the summit of K2, 8611m. They reached the top of the second highest mountain in the world together with Mingma Sherpa and Thilen Sherpa.
K2 summit for Italian Da Polenza expedition and Spanish Al filo de lo imposible.
26/07/2004 - Alpinism
K2 summit for Italian Da Polenza expedition and Spanish Al filo de lo imposible.
At 13,30 CET Silvio Mondinelli and Karl Unterchirker reached the summit of K2, followed by Walter Nones, Michele Compagnoni and Ugo Giacomelli at 14.15 (17.15 local time). At roughly 17.50 (local time) four members of the Spanish "Al filo de lo imposible” expedition, Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, Juan Vallejo...
Amahuagaychu, Peru, F.A.
22/07/2004 - Alpinism
Amahuagaychu, Peru, F.A.
On 11 June 2004, Mauro Florit, Massimo Sacchi and Marco Sterni reached the previously unclimbed summit of Amahuagaychu 5134m, in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru, via their new route (500m, VII, A2).
Fitz Roy new route by Orlandi, Codò and Fava
15/06/2004 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy new route by Orlandi, Codò and Fava
On 7 February 2004 the Italians Elio Orlandi and Luca Fava, and the Argentine Horacio Codò reached the summit of Chalten - Fitz Roy (Patagonia) via the new "Linea di Eleganza" , graded ED+ 6c/A3 90°/M7,
Russians summit Everest by new North Face route
01/06/2004 - Alpinism
Russians summit Everest by new North Face route
At 09.15am on 30/05/2004 three Russian climbers, Pasha Shabalin, Ilyas Tuhvatullin and Andrey Mariev reached the summit of Mt. Everest via a demanding new line up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face.
Everest 2004, records and storms
25/05/2004 - Alpinism
Everest 2004, records and storms
Last week 5 mountaineers died on Everest, while Sherpa Pemba Dorji climbed from Base Camp to the aummit in just 8 hours 10 minutes
Lhotse ascent for Kuntner and Joss, Everest for Nardi. And K2 time is fast approaching.
20/05/2004 - Alpinism
Lhotse ascent for Kuntner and Joss, Everest for Nardi. And K2 time is fast approaching.
On 15/05 Kristian Kuntner (ITA) and Norbert Joos (SUI) reached the summit of Lhotse without the use of supplementary oxygen. This is the 13th annd 1th 800m peak respectively. On 19/05 Daniele Nardi reached the summit of Everest from the north. The Scoiattoli di Cortina Expedition is preparing for its...
Lhotse ascent for Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich
17/05/2004 - Alpinism
Lhotse ascent for Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich
On 16/05 Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich summite Lhotse (8516m). Nives Meroi is now the most successful living female mountaineer.
Lhotse, Makalu, Everest, Jannu: work in progress
12/05/2004 - Alpinism
Lhotse, Makalu, Everest, Jannu: work in progress
Expeditions: summit time is fast approaching. In the Everest region the second half of May is statistically the most important time of year for successful summit bids.
Melloblocco: a great success!
11/05/2004 - Competitions
Melloblocco: a great success!
On Saturday 8 and Sunday 9 May, over 300 boulderers met up in the Italian Val di Mello and took part in the two-day international Bouldering event, organised by the Lombardy Mountain Guides.