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Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
02/02/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 28 January 2023 Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of the new mixed climb 'Happy Birthday' (1000m, AI4, M6 , ED) on the South Face of Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif).
Seb Berthe redpoints La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
31/01/2023 - Climbing
Seb Berthe redpoints La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
On 27/01/2023 Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe repeated La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana, Spain
Michaela Kiersch sends Siurana's La Rambla (9a+)
29/01/2023 - Climbing
Michaela Kiersch sends Siurana's La Rambla (9a+)
American climber Michaela Kiersch has climbed her first 9a+, La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana, Spain. The 28-year-old is only the third woman to repeat this classic test after Margo Hayes in 2017 and Chaehyun Seo in 2022.
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.
Mari Salvesen frees Tazlov, 8b trad crack in Norway
17/01/2023 - Climbing
Mari Salvesen frees Tazlov, 8b trad crack in Norway
Watch the video of Mari Augusta Salvesen making the first ascent of the trad climb Tazlov, a long term project of hers in Norway now graded 8b.
Stefano Ghisolfi bouldering at Bishop, USA
31/12/2022 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi bouldering at Bishop, usa
Watch Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi bouldering at Bishop, usa in November 2022. During his trip he sent his hardest problem to date, Goldfish Trombone V14/8B+.
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after travelling to the mountain by sailing boat from France with...
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in mid-September and reportedly in grave danger. By French journalist Claude...
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Rémi Bonnet, Célia Perillat-Pessey and Arno Lietha win at Ponte di Legno
19/12/2022 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Rémi Bonnet, Célia Perillat-Pessey and Arno Lietha win at Ponte di Legno
At Ponte di Legno in Italy Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Rémi Bonnet won the Individual race of the first stage of the Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2023. The Sprint race was won by Célia Perillat-Pessey and Arno Lietha.
Petition to protect Valle Cochamó in Patagonia Chile
08/12/2022 - Environment
Petition to protect Valle Cochamó in Patagonia Chile
An appeal has been launched to protect Cochamo Valley in Chile's Patagonia from being sold to private developers and to formally establish the area as a Nature Sanctuary.
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
Bronwyn Hodgins repeats Necronomicon horizontal roof crack at Canyonlands, USA
02/12/2022 - Climbing
Bronwyn Hodgins repeats Necronomicon horizontal roof crack at Canyonlands, usa
Canadian rock climber Bronwyn Hodgins has repeated the horizontal roof crack Necronomicon (5.13d/14a) at Moab, Canyonlands usa. The crack climb was first ascended by Jean-Pierre Ouellet in 2011.
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
28/11/2022 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Beth Rodden's Meltdown in Yosemite
26/11/2022 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Beth Rodden's Meltdown in Yosemite
On 22/11/2022, Italian climber Jacopo Larcher successfully made the 3rd ascent of the famous trad crack climb Meltdown in Yosemite Valley, usa.
Chaehyun Seo repeats La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
23/11/2022 - Climbing
Chaehyun Seo repeats La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
19-year-old climber Chaehyun Seo from South Korea has repeated La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana in Spain. She is only the second woman to climb this iconic route after Margo Hayes in 2017.