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International Paraclimbing Cup Arco, the results
07/09/2013 - Competitions
International Paraclimbing Cup Arco, the results
On 6 September 2013, thirty athletes from 10 nations competed in the Arco International Paraclimbing Cup 2013. An exciting moment marked, above all, by great climbing.
Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali
05/09/2013 - Climbing
Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali
On 10/08/2013 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Dall’alba al tramonto (6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II, 230m), a new climb up the SE Face of Presolana Centrale.
Spina de Mul, new rock climb up Col Becchei by Gargitter and Kehrer
29/08/2013 - Alpinism
Spina de Mul, new rock climb up Col Becchei by Gargitter and Kehrer
The two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Helmut Gargitter introduce their route Spina de Mul (185m, 7c max, 7a obl.) first climbed in June 2012 up the south face of Col Becchei (Dolomites).
Eiger Piola - Ghilini Direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
28/08/2013 - Alpinism
Eiger Piola - Ghilini Direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
On 2 August Roger Schäli and Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the Piola - Ghilini Direttissima (1400m, 7c) on the north face of the Eiger.
Invisibilis on Marmolada, the long history of a new route by Larcher and Vergoni
27/08/2013 - Alpinism
Invisibilis on Marmolada, the long history of a new route by Larcher and Vergoni
Rolando Larcher and Geremia Vergoni recount the birth of Invisibilis (405m, 7c+ max, 7a+ obl.), the new route established over 5 days from 2009 to 2011 up the south face of Marmolada di Ombretta (Dolomites) and freed by Vergoni on 26/06/2012 and repeated by Larcher on 11/09/2012. A route that...
Eiger North Face Paciencia climbed by MacLeod and Muskett
21/08/2013 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face Paciencia climbed by MacLeod and Muskett
The two British climbers Dave MacLeod and Calum Muskett have repeated Paciencia (8a, 900m) up the North Face of the Eiger.
By no means a walkover: Barbier - Bourgeois up Torre del Lago, with Ivo Ferrari
21/08/2013 - Alpinism
By no means a walkover: Barbier - Bourgeois up Torre del Lago, with Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari retraces the route established by Claude Barbier and Jean Bourgeois on Torre del Lago (Fanis group, Dolomites) on 4 August 1964.
Alexander Megos climbs Australia's first 9a
19/08/2013 - Climbing
Alexander Megos climbs Australia's first 9a
On 18/08/2013 Alexander Megos made the first ascent of Retired Extremely Dangerous (9a, 35) at Diamond Fall, Blue Mountains, Australia.
Patrick Gabarrou, an interview with the great alpinist and Mont Blanc connaisseur
19/08/2013 - Interviews
Patrick Gabarrou, an interview with the great alpinist and Mont Blanc connaisseur
Patrick Gabarrou was born in 1951 close to Paris in France and the routes first climbed by this alpinist, philosopher and mountain guide are integral parts of the history of Mont Blanc. The following interview was carried out by don Daniele D'Elia and Ronald Gumiel during the recent series of...
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2013 and the PROject competition athletes
15/08/2013 - Events
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2013 and the PROject competition athletes
The 15 athletes taking part in the The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2013 have been confirmed. This festival is open to all and takes place on 10 - 13 October 2013 on the island of Kalymnos in Greece.
Via Bonatti on Croz del Rifugio, a rediscovery above Bardonecchia
14/08/2013 - Alpinism
Via Bonatti on Croz del Rifugio, a rediscovery above Bardonecchia
Edoardo Falletta talks about his discovery of Via Bonatti, established by Walter Bonatti solo in 1951 up Croz del Rifugio above Bardonecchia in Piemonte, Italy.
New rock climb in Valle dell' Orco
09/08/2013 - Climbing
New rock climb in Valle dell' Orco
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Rataplan (175m, 7a+ max (6b obligatory) /RS2/I), a new multi-pitch climb first ascended together with Damiano Ceresa on 1 August and freed a few days later with with Cecilia Marchi up the Parete della Grande Ala, Chiapili di Sotto, Valle dell'Orco in Italy.
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
08/08/2013 - Alpinism
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in 1990 by Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault. Even today this...
New sports climb on Grande Gendarme, Arête des Cosmiques, Mont Blanc
07/08/2013 - Climbing
New sports climb on Grande Gendarme, Arête des Cosmiques, Mont Blanc
On 16 July 2013 Nicolas Potard and Victor Estrangin made the first and second ascent of Arête Cosmiques 8a, a new route on the Grande Gendarme, Arête des Cosmiques, Mont Blanc.
Arco Rock Legends and the 2013 nominations
06/08/2013 - Events
Arco Rock Legends and the 2013 nominations
The nominations for the VIII edition of Arco Rock Legends that will take place on Friday 6 September 2013 during the Rock Master Festival to assign both the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award. In the running for the sport climbing Oscars are Steve McClure, Alexander Megos,...
Mysterious Dolomites:  Ivo Ferrari and the climb Gianni Ribaldone on Spiz di Mezzo
05/08/2013 - Alpinism
Mysterious Dolomites: Ivo Ferrari and the climb Gianni Ribaldone on Spiz di Mezzo
Ivo Ferrari and the route Gianni Ribaldone, established on Spiz di Mezzo in the Zoldo Dolomites by H. Steinkötter and A. Mazzenga.

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