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North Twin new route climbed by Steve House, Marko Prezel
11/06/2004 - Alpinism
North Twin new route climbed by Steve House, Marko Prezel
In April Steve House and Marko Prezelj made the coveted third ascent of the 5000 foot North face of North Twin, Canadian Rockies, via a new line.
Russians summit Everest by new North Face route
01/06/2004 - Alpinism
Russians summit Everest by new North Face route
At 09.15am on 30/05/2004 three Russian climbers, Pasha Shabalin, Ilyas Tuhvatullin and Andrey Mariev reached the summit of Mt. Everest via a demanding new line up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face.
Lhotse ascent for Kuntner and Joss, Everest for Nardi. And K2 time is fast approaching.
20/05/2004 - Alpinism
Lhotse ascent for Kuntner and Joss, Everest for Nardi. And K2 time is fast approaching.
On 15/05 Kristian Kuntner (ITA) and Norbert Joos (SUI) reached the summit of Lhotse without the use of supplementary oxygen. This is the 13th annd 1th 800m peak respectively. On 19/05 Daniele Nardi reached the summit of Everest from the north. The Scoiattoli di Cortina Expedition is preparing for its...
Alessandro Lamberti frees Er Cid 8c, Carpe Diem and King for a Day
19/05/2004 - Climbing
Alessandro Lamberti frees Er Cid 8c, Carpe Diem and King for a Day
Alessandro Jolly Lamberti makes the first ascent of Er Cid 8c, Carpe Diem, 8b/c and King for a Day, 8b/c at Grotti
Ciao Patrick, new route on Khali Himal
06/05/2004 - Alpinism
Ciao Patrick, new route on Khali Himal
The report by Simone Moro eand details of the new route on the North Face of Khali Himal - Baruntse North (7066m), Nepal.
Marlier and Farina make FA of Matador on Mont Blanc du Tacul
20/04/2004 - Alpinism
Marlier and Farina make FA of Matador on Mont Blanc du Tacul
On 14/04/2004 Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina made the first ascent of Matador, a new mixed line up the east face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Valle d'Aosta ice climbing updates
19/03/2004 - Alpinism
Valle d'Aosta ice climbing updates
A flurry of new routes in Italy's Valle di Cogne, Valle d'Aosta
New routes in Valdigne
10/03/2004 - Alpinism
New routes in Valdigne
Making the most of cold conditions in Northern Italy, Arnaud Clavel and Matteo Giglio have added a couple of important new routes to the Valle d'Aosta.
Russian expedition to climb new line on Everest North Face
01/03/2004 - Alpinism
Russian expedition to climb new line on Everest North Face
At the end of February an 20-stong Russian expedition set off from Moscow for the Himalayas, where it aims to forge a technical new route up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face
Bubu Bole and Anna Torretta dry tooling at Ueschinen
25/02/2004 - Alpinism
Bubu Bole and Anna Torretta dry tooling at Ueschinen
Mauro Bubu Bole repeats No limits M12+ and Anna Torretta climbs Vertical Limits M12 at Ueschinen, Switzerland
Cristal FFME 2003 awarded to Benoist - Glairon-Rappaz and Bérhault - Magnin
23/02/2004 - Events
Cristal FFME 2003 awarded to Benoist - Glairon-Rappaz and Bérhault - Magnin
The Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l'Escalade awarded the climbers Benoist-Glairon-Rappaz and Bérhault-Magnin for their outstandiing ascents in 2003
Babanov and Koshelenko win Piolet d'or 2003
10/02/2004 - Events
Babanov and Koshelenko win Piolet d'or 2003
Valeri Babanov and Yuri Koshelenko won the prestigous Piolet d'Or for their ascent of Nuptse East South Pillar in November 2003.
Nanga Parbat 1970. Reinhold Messner told the truth
25/01/2004 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat 1970. Reinhold Messner told the truth
Günther Messner really did perish during the descent of the Nanga Parbat Diamir Face, as his brother Reinhold has always sustained.
Chile: Stucchi, Davila and Redaelli fly
09/01/2004 - Alpinism
Chile: Stucchi, Davila and Redaelli fly "El Condor"
On 24-28/12/2003, Silvestro Stucchi, Elena Davila and Riccardo Redaelli made the first ascent of "EL Condor" (VI, A1), in the Rio Azufre Valley, Torri del Brujo, Chile.
Aconcagua south face: new route for Humar and Kozelj
08/01/2004 - Alpinism
Aconcagua south face: new route for Humar and Kozelj
At the end of December 2003 the Slovenians Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed the south face of Aconcagua (6930 m) via a new route "Mobitel's Swallow - Johan's route" VI+(A2).
Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan rock Morocco
11/11/2003 - Climbing
Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan rock Morocco
From 6 - 27 October 2003 the Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Michele Paissan and Maurizio Oviglia established Sul filo della notte (7c+ max; 7b obl) in the Taghia gorge, High Atlas, Morocco.

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