Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin repeat Mora Mora on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
America’s Sasha DiGiulian and Spain’s Edu Marin have made what is believed to be the second free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin have made what is likely to be the second free ascent of Mora Mora, the 700-meter line to the right of Mai più Cosi (Never the Same) up the East Face of Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Mora Mora was established by the Spaniards Francisco Blanco and Toti Valés in September 1999, a year after the first ascent of Mai più Così by Rolando Larcher, Marco Sterni and Erik Svab, and was freed in 2010 by Adam Ondra during his astounding Madagascan tour de force. This also resulted in the coveted first free ascent of Tough Enough which, at the time, went down as one of the most difficult multi-pitch climbs in the world.
DiGiulian and Marin worked the individual pitches of Mora Mora in July, then spent three days climbing all pitches free, with both climbers sending the 8c crux.
In the past DiGiulian and Marin have climbed various other multi-pitch routes together, including Bellavista on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in 2013 and Viaje de Los Locos in Sardinia in 2014. DiGiulian rates her latest ascent as her most difficult multi-pitch to date, and it goes without saying that this also checks in as the first female ascent of the route.
Tsaranoro Atsimo East Face, Madagascar
First ascent: Francisco Blanco, Toti Valés 09/ 1999
First free ascent: Adam Ondra, Pietro Dal Prà 10/2010
P1 6a+, P2 6b, P3 7b, P4 7b+, P5 7b+, P6 7c+/8a, P7 8b+/8c, P8 6c+, P9 7a+, P10 7c+, P11 7b+, P12 4.
Link: Petzl, La Sportiva