Ryuichi Murai repeats Sleepwalker 8C+ at Red Rocks, USA

On his first visit to Red Rocks on the outskirts of Las Vegas, Ryuichi Murai made short work of Sleepwalker, the 8C+ boulder problem established by Jimmy Webb in 2018.

The 28-year-old Japanese climber solved all the moves on his second day working the problem, but then failed to make much progress, falling repeatedly on the long reach to the sloper. A breakthrough moment came on day 7 when he discovered some new beta for the upper section, then on only his 8th day he sent. This came about not without difficulties; writing on his social media handle, he explained "I had a good feeling of undercling, and I was able to hit the sloper from the start for the first time. After that, I was fell by slot hold twice, but I finally managed to climb it on the third hit. It was good to be in time just before the end of the tour."

Murai has numerous 8C+ to his name including the first ascents of United (2019) and the stunning power test Floatin (2021). With Sleepwalker in the bag, on his next trip he will no doubt wish to try the sitstart. Called Return of the Sleepwalker and established by Daniel Woods in 2021, this is the logical next step and one of the few 9A boulder problems in the world.