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|Noia at Andonno for Alberto Gnerro too. Well within his grasp for a long time, only now did he decide to devote his attention to this magical line. And with great results. We let Alberto do the talking: |
I should have done it many years ago but instead I did it today, 4 November 2001. Someone asked me what I was trying and I answer Noia He remains stunned - he had taken it for granted that I had already climbed the route.
On my first go on Sunday my foot shoots off, just like it did on Thursday. I dont know whether its my shoes that are too new or the foothold that is completely polished. I lower off, lie down on the grass and wake up an hour later. Nooo! Its going to be hard to start again.
Twenty minutes later Im ready and I start once more. After two minutes I reach the point where my foot slipped, but this time I pretend to place it and just lock off. I reach the rest before the final crux; good hold right, foot on black hold, pinch final edge and semi-dyno for the undercling. The difficulties are now over.
Ow! My small finger starts bleeding badly and slips out of the hold, forcing me to pinch it even harder and finish the route. Noia is a fantastic line, Id even say The Line. One day Id like to find and bolt a route as beautiful as this!
A. Gnerro at St. Leger du Ventoux 30/04/2001
> J. Bereciartu sends 'Noia' 01/11/2001
Alberto Gnerro climbing Noia
(photo Stefano Mosca)