New route in Gole di Gorroppu, Sardinia

Oviglia and Sarti add multi-pitch route in Sardinia's fantastic Gole di Gorroppu
On 17-18 April Simone Sarti and Maurizio Oviglia added a new multi-pitch route to the Gole di Gorroppu. This fantastic 500m limestone cliff has all the makings for becoming Sardinia's most important area for multi-pitch routes.

The new route takes the slab line to the left of 'Sogni di Sara' to the only ledge on the South Pillar, before breaking right through roofs to a difficult corner and hanging slabs.

According to the first ascentionists, the long run-outs on the 11 pitches make 'L'occhio assoluto' fairly demanding: three extra bolts were added on abseil to render some 15m sections safe. Small wires are recommended, but were not used during the first ascent.


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Simone Sarti on the middle pitches


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Simone Sarti on the exposed ninth pitch of 'Occhio assoluto'.


Maurizio Oviglia





Maurizio's 'dirty hands' at the base of the route.






Grade & gear

7a (6b+ obligatory). 440m, 11 pitches.
Two 50m ropes, some slings, possibly some small wires.

The fantastic grey limestone pillar faces south and receives the Mediterranean sun almost all day.




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