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New route in Gole di Gorroppu, Sardinia


Oviglia and Sarti add multi-pitch route in Sardinia's fantastic Gole di Gorroppu

On 17-18 April Simone Sarti and Maurizio Oviglia added a new multi-pitch route to the Gole di Gorroppu. This fantastic 500m limestone cliff has all the makings for becoming Sardinia's most important area for multi-pitch routes.

The new route takes the slab line to the left of 'Sogni di Sara' to the only ledge on the South Pillar, before breaking right through roofs to a difficult corner and hanging slabs.

According to the first ascentionists, the long run-outs on the 11 pitches make 'L'occhio assoluto' fairly demanding: three extra bolts were added on abseil to render some 15m sections safe. Small wires are recommended, but were not used during the first ascent.

climbing in Sardinia

Simone Sarti on the middle pitches

climbing in Sardinia
Simone Sarti on the exposed ninth pitch of 'Occhio assoluto'.

Maurizio Oviglia

Maurizio's 'dirty hands' at the base of the route.

Grade & gear

7a (6b+ obligatory). 440m, 11 pitches.
Two 50m ropes, some slings, possibly some small wires.

The fantastic grey limestone pillar faces south and receives the Mediterranean sun almost all day.





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