New multi-pitch rock climb in Limarò Gorge, Sarca Valley, Italy

In April 2019 Francesco Salvaterra and Vittorio Giovannella made the first ascent of Calypso (150m 6b, 6a ob.), a new multi-pitch sport climb in the Gola del Limarò canyon in the Sarca Valley close to Arco, Italy.
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Making the first ascent of Calypso in Gola del Limarò, Valle del Sarca, Italy (Vittorio Giovannella, Francesco Salvaterra 04/2019)
Francesco Salvaterra / Vittorio Giovannella

This summer it’s going to be important to choose uncrowded, quiet climbing areas. In truth, I’ve always searched for a secluded corner in order to get away from the chaotic hustle and bustle of everyday life, even before this Covid-19 period.

I thought I’d share this short route, which I established last year with Vittorio Giovannella, because it has all the above characteristics. It’s easy to reach, secluded and in a breathtaking ambient.

The wall faces west so it remains in the shade until mid-afternoon, and is therefore ideal in summer, too, which is fairly uncommon in the Sarca valley.

Calypso has a plaisir feel to it since it’s bolted, but there are a few short sections which need backing up with cams.

Enjoy the route and don't forget: take some beers and put them in river. There are few places as beautiful as this to enjoy a cool beer, even when the bars are back open!

by Francesco Salvaterra

TOPO: Calypso, Gola del Limarò in Valle del Sarca, Arco, Italy

Salvaterra thanks his sponsors: Ferrino, Climbing Technology, Lizard, Salice

Info: www.francescosalvaterra.comFB Francesco Salvaterra




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