Siete Venas on Alpeltalkopf freed by Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber
Alexander Huber reports about his summer 2020 first free ascent of Siete Venas on Alpeltalkopf (Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps), an 8b multi-pitch established with his brother Thomas Huber.
Eight years ago Thomas and I started a project on the north face of Alpeltalkopf. It’s a steep north face. Ideal for the hot summer days and therefore the perfect complement to our Sonnenkönig on Untersberg. When it’s too hot to climb elsewhere, this north face stands a chance to really dry out! What began eight years ago, and was worked on in the meantime with Michael Grassl, would now finally come to fruition. If not now, when!?
The route starts with a massive overhanging face, often so soaked in water that it really requires a few days of no rain coupled with soaring temperatures until it finally dries out. This is then followed by two pitches of elegant climbing on a vertical face which leads to something extremly special: the jutting four-meter roof on pitch five.
It’s steep, airy and extremely fun to climb! With a big dyno you jump into the roof, just like on Action Directe - only the wrong way round and with much better holds. Having said that, here though you have 150 meters of air beneath your climbing shoes!
As with the Sonnenkönig we had to wait until September for our redpoint ascent. Siete Venas is a prime example of really powerful, steep climbing, just like "Siete Venas" is a great mix of energetic music. For anyone interested in powerful rock comprised of ska, punk and cumbia: check out Siete Venas From del Monte!
by Alexander Huber
Siete Venas, Alpeltalkopf, Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps
8b, 6 pitches
Links: huberbuam.de, IG Alexander Huber, IG Thomas Huber, IG Heinz Zak, La Sportiva, Petzl