Home page Planetmountain.com
Kondus valley: Kurt Ross soloing on a smaller tower during acclimatization. Changi 2 tower in the background.
Photo by Nelson Neirinck
Kondus valley: Jess Roskelley races the last few minutes of daylight to the summit of Chhota Bai
Photo by Nelson Neirinck
Kurt Ross, Jess Roskelley and Nelson Neirinck
Photo by Jess Roskelley
Kondus valley: Changi Tower 2 and the route Hard tellin' not knowin' (M6, A14, Nelson Neirinck, Jess Roskelley, Kurt Ross 08/2018)
Photo by Kurt Ross

New climbs on two Karakorum 6000ers


American alpinists Jess Roskelley and Kurt Ross and Belgium's Nelson Neirinck have made the first ascents of two previously unclimbed mountains in Pakistan’s Karakorum massif: Chhota Bhai 6321 m and Changi Tower 2 6250 m above the Kondus valley.

American alpinists Jess Roskelley and Kurt Ross and Nelson Neirinck from Belgium are currently battling the sweltering heat in Islamabad after having enjoyed almost a month of perfect weather in Pakistan’s Karakoram mountains where they managed to ascend two hitherto unclimbed 6000m peaks in the previously untouched northeast Kondus valley close to the Indian border.

Acting on a tipoff from US climber Steve Swenson, the trio reached the Karakoram cirque in mid-July and established base camp at circa 4400 meters after a mere two-day approach. They acclimatised further by climbing a nearby rock tower that peaked a circa 5800m and then set their sights on Chhota Bhai, a 6321m mountain which is dwarfed by nearby K6 - hence the name which means little brother. A day was spent reaching the base of the headwall, where they pitched a tent to escape the heat. They set off early in the morning on 4 August and after climbing for most of the day decided to wait just below the summit for temperatures to cool down once again in order to avoid the afternoon rockfall. They summited at 18:30 circa and then began the descent, returning to the base of the mountain after a 3 day round-trip. Naps & Noms weighs in at AI4.

A short rest happily coincided with the only poor weather during the entire trip, after which they focussed on what locals call Changi Tower 2, a 6250m peak not to be confused with the nearby, taller Changi Tower. On 9 August Neirinck, Roskelley and Ross navigated across the glacier to establish ABC and bivied once more during the ascent. Once again they waited for temperatures to cool prior to crossing a rockfall zone, and the summit was reached successfully on 11 August. The descent was hampered by rockfall chopping both ropes, but the trio made it down safely the next day. The new route has been called their Hard tellin’ not knowin’ (M6, A14).

A complete report will follow in due course.

Links: FB Jess Roskelley, FB Kurt Ross, FB Nelson Neirinck


NEWS / Related news:
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.
No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley
No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley
On 29 and 30 May 2014 American alpinists John Frieh and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of No Rest For the Wicked (IV+ AI6 M7), a difficult new route up the West Witches Tit in SE Alaska. The report by John Frieh.
Alaska: big new climb on Citadel in the remote Kichatna Range
Alaska: big new climb on Citadel in the remote Kichatna Range
From 5 - 7 April Ben Erdmann, Jess Roskelley and Kristoffer Szilas made the first ascent of Hypa Zypa Couloir (ED: AI5+, M6+, 5.10R, A3, 1100m) up the East Face of the Citadel in the Kichatna Range, Alaska.




Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer