New climbs above Juneau Ice Cap in Alaska by Brette Harrington and Caro North
Caro North and Brette Harrington have made the first ascent of new mixed line up the NE Face of Southern Duke and added a new rock climb to the Taku towers on the Juneau Ice Cap in Alaska.
Brette Harrington and Caro North have established a 500m new climb up the North East Face of Southern Duke in Alaska. Harrington, who recently established Life Compass up Mount Blane in Canada, spent a fortnight on the Juneau ice cap with Swiss alpinist Caro North and, after waiting out a heavy storm for 3 days, climbed the "beautiful alpine mixed line" past difficulties up to M5+, 5.10b, 85°.
The weather improved significantly and the the duo climb a new 5-pitch 5.10+ up "amazing featured rock with quite some runouts" on the nearby Taku towers. Furthermore, they completed a strenuous, 2 day-ski touring trip 20 miles across the Takku Glacier in order to ski the 1000m SE Couloir of Devils Paw.
The new mixed route has been dedicated to Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson who disappeared while climbing the Mendenhall Towers in the Juneau area in mid-March 2018.
We also opened a great rock climb on the Takku towers, 5 pitches 5.10+ on amazing featured rock with quite some runouts. Here @bretteharrington is starting up on pitch 4. We couldn't believe how nice the weather got after 3 days trapped in our tents during à snowstorm. #mammutabsolutealpine #mammutna #julboathlete #petzlgram #scarpaclimbing #alaska #juneauicefield #firstascent #girlspower
Brette Harrington thanks: Arc'teryx, La Sportiva
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