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Mario Panzeri climbs all 14!


Yesterday 17 May the Italian alpinist Mario Panzeri reached the summit of Dhaulagiri to compete the tour of the 14 eighthousanders. After Reinhold Messner, Silvio Mondinelli and Abele Blanc he is now the fourth Italian to climb all the highest mountains in the world without supplementary oxygen.

Yesterday was a historic day for Mario Panzeri - and Italian mountaineering in general - which celebrated the highly anticipated summit of Dhaulagiri in Himalaya. This ascent has crowned the dream of the Italian alpinist to climb all 14 x 8000ers, naturally without supplementary oxygen.

Panzeri celebrated his success of the 8167m together with Giampaolo Corona and Dawa Sherpa while the other expedition member, Marco Confortola, was forced to abandon his attempt at 7500m to avoid frostbite.

Last week Panzeri celebrated his 48th birthday and there could have been no better present than this summit. The Mountain Guide has ascents that spawn from the Alps to the Andes and he began his Himalayan career in 1988 with the ascent of Cho Oyu. After two attempts from the north, in 1992 he finally summited Everest from the south, and this was followed four years later by K2 and, in 1997, Lhotse. A rest period - read an attempt on Annapurna and another Everest attempt from the north - was followed by the final, decisive rush: Annapurna (2005), Makalu & Gasherbrum II (2006), Nanga Parbat & Broad Peak (2008), Manaslu (2009), Shisha Pangma (2010), Kangchenjunga & Gasherbrum I (2011) and, yesterday, Dhaulagiri.

With this final success Mario Panzeri isn't merely the third Italian after Reinhold Messner, Silvio Mondinelli and Abele Blanc to climb all the world's highest peaks without supplementary oxygen. He has, above all, demonstrated once again his reputation for being a truly strong mountaineer (his resistance to altitude is legendary), a hallmark which lies in the DNA of the alpinists of his generation and his land.





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