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Louis Gundolf repeats Safety Discussion, David Lama & Peter Ortner masterpiece in Lienz Dolomites

Belayed by Jonathan Lechner, on 31/08/2021 Austrian climber Louis Gundolf repeated 'Safety Discussion', a difficult multipitch established in 2012 by David Lama and Peter Ortner on the South Face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria.

Planetmountain

September 2022

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Louis Gundolf repeating Safety Discussion on the South Face of Laserz, Lienz Dolomites, belayed by Jonathan Lechner

Matteo Mocellin / Storyteller-Labs

The ascent dates back to two summers ago, we’ve found out about it only now: on 31 August 2021 Austria’s Louis Gundolf made a rare ascent of Safety Discussion, the difficult climb on the south face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites put up in 2012 by the David Lama and Peter Ortner.

In July 2012 Lama and Ortner, who had just returned from Patagonia and the milestone first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, made their way to the limestone south face keen on freeing Jugendanstieg, but the huge overhanging flake just to the right immediately caught their attention. The pair freed Jugendanstieg without problems and the next day they returned to the mountain to start what was to become Safety Discussion. The ten pitch route was first ascended round-up, past difficulties estimated at X- / 8b max, and boasts an extremely spartan use of bolts. Read, at least one bolt at each belay, and 6 in total on the pitches where it was impossible to continue with just wires, cams and pegs.

After his first free ascent in September 2012 Lama stated "For me, the Safety Discussion route is one of my best first ascents, and is especially valuable for its minimal use of bolts. The route is long, challenging, and while the next potential suitors won't have to climb into the unknown, the first time on the route will definitely remain an adventure."

Belayed by Jonathan Lechner, Gundolf completed his redpoint on 31 August after a failed first attempt which resulted in Gundolf pulling out one of Lama’s pegs during a fall. This now holds a prime position as it dangles from his car mirror, acting as a great memory and good luck charm.

What makes Gundolf’s ascent all the more remarkable is the fact that the 20-year-old is first and foremost a competition climber. Although Safety Discussion isn’t his first alpine outing, it is certainly his most difficult to date, both physically and mentally.

Info: www.salewa.com/blog-the-less-the-better