La Penultima added to Elferkofel in Dolomites, Italy

Samuel Holzknecht, Simon Messner and Cesare Olivetti have made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'La Penultima' on Elferkofel / Cima Undici in the Sexten Dolomites, Italy. The 450m climb above Fischleintal ends at the Cengia degli Alpini ledge.
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The first ascent of 'La Penultima' on Elferkofel, Sexten Dolomites (Samuel Holzknecht, Simon Messner, Cesare Olivetti 12/2023 & 01/2024)
archivio Cesare Olivetti

Over a period of two days, on 30/12/2023 and 05/01/2024 Simon Messner, Samuel Holzknecht and Cesare Olivetti established a mixed climb on Elferkofel, aka as Cima Undici in the Italian Dolomites. The route climbs an obvious up to the Cengia degli Alpini ledge and ends here.

Olivetti explained "While approaching another route we wanted to repeat, we noticed this line and immediately decided that this would become our project that day. On the first day we climbed until we ran out of gear, and on the second day we managed to establish the last four pitches and complete the line.

The result is a somewhat adventurous route that alternates sections of ice with some snow-covered ramps and mixed pitches up to the M5+. Cams, pegs and a hammer are necessary for a repeat. We only left the belays equipped with gear (1 bolt + maillon rapide) and one or two pegs on the pitches."

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