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Janez Svoljšak on the summit ridge of Apocalypse North (2750m), Revelation glacier, Alaska
Photo by Miha Zupin
Janez Svoljšak on the summit of Wailing Wall, Revelation glacier, Alaska
Photo by Miha Zupin
Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 Corvara: Slovenia's Janez Svoljšak, winner at Corvara and European Champion 2016
Photo by Im Duck Yong
Slovenian alpinist Janez Svoljšak (1993-2019)
Photo by Vido Repansek

Janez Svoljšak, goodbye to the promising climber from Slovenia


Slovenian alpinist Janez Svoljšak passed away on 15 July at base camp while on an expedition to climb Tahu Rutum (6650m), Karakorum, Pakistan. The promising mountaineer was just 25 years old.

Janez Svoljšak used to be one of the best athletes on UIAA ice climbing World Cup circuit, where he competed from 2012 until 2017. During the last 3 years he devoted his life to traditional alpinism and became one of Slovenia’s most promising young climbers, with fast ascents of difficult mixed routes to his name.

Svoljšak’s ice climbing career took off in 2014 when won the Youth World Championship at Champagny, France. From then on he became one of few athletes who regularly succeeded in making the finals.

Svoljšak placed second in the Saas Fee stage of the 2016 World cup and just a week later won the Rabenstein stage in Italy, where he was also crowned European championship. He placed third in the Ice Climbing World Cup ranking in 2016.

After the 2016/2017 competition season Svoljšak’s focus shifted back to alpinism. Nevertheless he remained involved in ice climbing competitions, coaching the Slovenian team and working as a route setter for the European cup event in Domžale.

His notable ascents include Saphira M15, the Innominata Ridge on Mont Blanc solo in a day, the Schmidt route up the Matterhorn solo in a day, as well as five new routes above the Revelation glacier in Alaska in earlier this year.

According to Slovenian news reports, Svoljšak died in his sleep while at base camp while on an expedition to climb Tahu Rutum (6650m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Together with Sara Jaklic he had planned on climbing the West ridge in alpine style.


NEWS / Related news:
Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016
Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016
The final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 took place last weekend at Rabenstein - Corvara in Italy. After four competitions, both the Lead and Speed World Cups were won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov. Lead stage victory went ot Janez Svoljšak from Slovenia and Han Na Rai Song from Korea, while the fastest Speed climbers were Radomir Proshchenko and Tolokonina. Corvara also awarded the European Championship title, won by Svoljšak and Switzerland's Petra Klingler (Lead) and by Proshchenko and Tolokonina (Speed).




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