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Glowacz and Jasper summit Murallon!


Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper have completed their "Vom Winde verweht" up the North Pillar of Murallón, Patagonia.

They've done it! Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper have completed their "Vom Winde verweht" up the North Face of Murallón. The two German climbers reached the 2831m high summit late Saturday evening after climbing the 27 pitches which they have graded 9+, A2.

Glowacz and Jasper set off at 3.00 am on Friday 12 November after having endured almost three weeks of continuous bad weather in the ice cave base camp. A brief spell of good weather enabled them to climb throughout the day, and after a bivouac on the wall they topped out at 9.00 pm on 13/11/2005 in worsening weather conditions. A long series of abseils brought them to the safety of basecamp at 3.00 am, where they were met by Hans-Martin Götz and Klaus Fengler.

"Vom Winde verweht" , or Gone with the wind, is the result of dogged determination: in 2004 they got to within 250 m of the summit, before storms forced them to retreat. In grueling six-day period they established 21 pitches, climbing 17 free (9/9+) and aiding 4 (A2). "Vom Winde verweht" is the second Glowacz & Jasper route on Cerro Murallon, after "The Lost World" (V 5.10+ M8, 1100m, Glowacz-Jasper-Fengler, 2003).

Murallón Patagonia
Cerro Murallon was first climbed in 1984 by the Italians Cassimiro Ferrari, Carlo Aldè and Paolo Vitali in a historic Patagonian ascent (VI 5.10 A2/3 80°, 1500m, Aldè-Ferrari-Vitali, 1984).
Photo: The North Pillar of Murallon, 2003.
Photo Klaus Fengler
Links PlanetMountain
Links www
Report Lost World Alpinist.com





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